Hunkering Down at Smith’s

When the mastermind’s behind two of my favorite restaurants in Manhattan teamed up, I could only imagine what they’d stir up together in the kitchen. Smith’s, the resulting union between Danny Abrams of Mermaid Inn and Cindy Smith of Raoul’s is a delicious take on seasonal cuisine. Everything about the restaurant from décor to dish makes the most sense when you know who is behind it.

From Danny, details like the pistachio-colored walls and a breezy, café-esque vibe put diners at ease. From Cindy, notes like the black leather banquettes, the mirrored ceiling, and the hidden velvet bar in the back hark a sultry, clandestine evening.

Food-wise, Abrams is probably the one who brings the Charred Cape Cod Baby Squid, served with lemon confit, olives, and pancetta. Thanks to his influence, you may also enjoy Grilled Dorade or Line Caught Wild Striped Bass. A Steamed Egg served with creamy polenta and Portuguese Sardines crusted in Parmigiano Reggiano, served on a foundation of tomato confit seemed more Raoul’s-style. Smith may have also had something to do with the Rib-Eye Steak, served with a bone marrow gravy.

Whoever is responsible for the Homemade Corzetti served with thick cut mushrooms and bathed in a walnut puree is either a genius or trying to kill us. The side portion of pasta was so rich that between two people, we could not bring ourselves to take the last bite, not matter how delicious it was, which it was.

To end things on a light note, we tried the Meyer Lemon Tart, which served as an ideal finish to the hearty meal. Other options that tempted were the Warm Apple Cake with ginger ice cream and caramel as well as the Hot Chocolate accompanied by a plate of cookies.

I didn’t feel so full exactly but certainly was aware of the richness involved with each dish, much like how I feel after an evening at Raoul’s. The food is decadent but doesn’t slow you down. More, it’ll get you in the mood to walk back to the bar and sample one of the Smith-crafted cocktails like their signature drink made with Bulleit bouron, maple syrup, and lemon. Unfortunately, when you finish your meal, the bar will most likely be packed to capacity. Something both Smith and Abrams have also brought with them is hype.