Tuesday, May 13, 2008

(k)Not Rusty Food

What was supposed to be a drink with a best buddy of mine quickly became a full-on feeding frenzy by the time we’d finished reading the menu at Rusty Knot, the newest venture to be churned out by veterans of The Spotted Pig. This new, yet designed-to-be-a-dive bar is located along the West Side Highway on the corner of West Eleventh. It instantly feels tacky and out-of-touch upon walking in… but kind of in a good way. The so-bad-it’s-good thing is in its highest form here—it’s your grandma’s basement.

The fare also takes from that era (or before); however, there is no hint of mothballs as far as the experience of the kitchen is concerned. In a way, the food offered is World’s Fair food—things I imagine you’d find among the food carts at one of these 19th century events, and everything is top-notch.

Pickles, oysters, meat pies, and mussels all surface on the menu—the sort of old New York staples that have become so posh in this day and age. Everything here, however, is made with much more precision and years of culinary school than the dishes by which they were inspired.

Mussels are prepared with bacon and breadcrumbs. Each in individually assembled and then served back in their shell. Peel and Eat Shrimp are a fantastic burst of the sea. Simply prepared and halfway shelled, I ended up ordering two baskets of them, which are messy to eat but clearly worth it.

The Chicken Liver and Bacon Sandwich, though I was hesitant to take a bite turned out to be spectacular. Served on a crusty but soft loaf, I enjoyed this immensely. I can also imagine that it would be ideal drunk- food, which might be an ulterior motive. $3 Meat Pies were also winners in that sense, as I can imagine myself sitting at the bar popping them back in between beers all night.

And speaking of the bar, specialty drinks and excellent variety of scotch and bourbon will keep you happy that you trekked all the way to the western most hot spot in Manhattan. Have a glass of Four Roses Bourbon, also a grandma-era throwback since it took a 45-year hiatus of availability in our town until it resurfaced only last year. If that’s too strong, get the Rusty Knot—a rum and sour mix drink—or a Dark and Stormy, also made with rum but this time cut with ginger beer and served in a tall silly tiki glass.

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