A few years ago, I started to receive The Art of Eating quarterly. This is not food writing for the mainstream but rather, it’s a magazine for those who truly admire the culinary arts. I must admit, at times (even often), it’s a bit over my head. However, when I received my copy in the mail last month, the cheddar cheese article in which Ed Behr—the editor and publisher—details tracking down a truly traditional version of the American classic instantly struck me.
He claims to have found it in a year aged cloth-bound cheddar made by Jasper Hill Farms in conjunction with Cabot Creamery, and I am happy to report that it is available at Anne Saxelby Cheesemongers. The cheese is everything it’s hyped up to be: velvety, earthy, sweet and salty. The texture is both hard and then smooth; and the sweetness is rich. The day I had it, I made myself the best cheese sandwich I’ve ever tasted!
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Dinner and Song at Bar-Bo-Né
On a tip from a client, I headed to Bar-Bo-Né in the East Village for an Italian dinner al fresco. We went on an enchanting evening: the back patio was packed with young couples and people celebrating various events. On more than one occasion, whole tables were breaking out into song while others were being serenaded. Clearly, the mood was merry. The host passed from table to table, making sure that everyone was happy with the food and the atmosphere.
And happy we were. If the encouragement from the impromptu musical wasn’t enough to endorse a wonderful dinner, the food could certainly stand on its own. When dining there, be sure to get the asparagus fries. A battered and fried pile of bright green asparagus arrive piping hot with a cool, tangy dipping sauce. They would be enough to split as an appetizer, but then you’d miss out on the refreshing radicchio and Parmesan salad and the saffron steamed mussels. There are enough mussels for a main course, and regardless of when you order them, you’ll be sopping up the jus with the grilled filone bread that tops the mussel mountain.
For the entrée, stick with one of the pastas. The trofie with pesto reminded me instantly of Cinque Terre, the five small towns on the Mediterranean coast of Italy. And the linguine with clams and pancetta was ideal for the summer evening. I know I’ll be back for pappardelle with braised short rib ragu and I can’t wait to dive into the squid ink tagliatelle puttanesca. As for true mains (secondi), order the seared salmon with spaghetti squash and shitakes.
The patio is charismatic and pleasant that it swayed my dinner guest and I to linger in our seats long after we’d finished our food. We contemplated dessert, but decided we were too full. Instead of dropping a check and trying to turn the table, the host took pride in our high spirits and content dispositions. He brought out two glasses of Muscadet, compliments of the house.
After a half an hour of lounging, we summoned the check. We didn’t want to leave the magical patio, but had late night plans elsewhere. Before we could walk through the restaurant, however, the host saw us out and wished us well into the evening.
And happy we were. If the encouragement from the impromptu musical wasn’t enough to endorse a wonderful dinner, the food could certainly stand on its own. When dining there, be sure to get the asparagus fries. A battered and fried pile of bright green asparagus arrive piping hot with a cool, tangy dipping sauce. They would be enough to split as an appetizer, but then you’d miss out on the refreshing radicchio and Parmesan salad and the saffron steamed mussels. There are enough mussels for a main course, and regardless of when you order them, you’ll be sopping up the jus with the grilled filone bread that tops the mussel mountain.
For the entrée, stick with one of the pastas. The trofie with pesto reminded me instantly of Cinque Terre, the five small towns on the Mediterranean coast of Italy. And the linguine with clams and pancetta was ideal for the summer evening. I know I’ll be back for pappardelle with braised short rib ragu and I can’t wait to dive into the squid ink tagliatelle puttanesca. As for true mains (secondi), order the seared salmon with spaghetti squash and shitakes.
The patio is charismatic and pleasant that it swayed my dinner guest and I to linger in our seats long after we’d finished our food. We contemplated dessert, but decided we were too full. Instead of dropping a check and trying to turn the table, the host took pride in our high spirits and content dispositions. He brought out two glasses of Muscadet, compliments of the house.
After a half an hour of lounging, we summoned the check. We didn’t want to leave the magical patio, but had late night plans elsewhere. Before we could walk through the restaurant, however, the host saw us out and wished us well into the evening.
Madhouse
When my roommate went to Vermont last month to shoot a documentary, I received a text message about dangerously addictive potato chips. Not a fan of chips in general, I was a bit skeptical of the whole notion. However, my roomie convinced me to try them, and has proved to be an adept epicurean in his selection. Madhouse Munchies potato chips come in Sea Salt, Mesquite BBQ, Creamy French Onion, and Sea Salt & Vinegar and contain no trans or monosaturated fats. They are hand kettle cooked for a super crunchy texture and can be purchased directly from the company website. You also can (and should!) enter your chip bag number in on the website, which will automatically donate two cents to Share Our Strength in the company’s Chip-In for Hungry Kids effort.
Eggplant Caviar
I’m headed off to Russia this week and in preparation I’ve been trying to acclimate myself to the food I’ll be eating while abroad. I learned to make one of my favorites: eggplant caviar. Here’s how I did it:
2 medium eggplants
1/2 cup olive oil
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon minced onion
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Preheat oven to 375˚. Quarter eggplants, drizzle with olive oil and roast 30 minutes with the garlic.
2. Cool, skin, and mash. Add the rest of the ingredients. Mash until smooth.
3. Chill several hours or overnight and serve with toasted points.
2 medium eggplants
1/2 cup olive oil
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon minced onion
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Preheat oven to 375˚. Quarter eggplants, drizzle with olive oil and roast 30 minutes with the garlic.
2. Cool, skin, and mash. Add the rest of the ingredients. Mash until smooth.
3. Chill several hours or overnight and serve with toasted points.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
A Trip Down Memory Lane: Revisiting Orchard St
A few weeks ago, I stopped in to Little Giant, the restaurant where I used to work, to say hello to an old friend and mentor. It's been a short two years since I worked and lived on Orchard, but my how things have changed! Julie decided to give me a little introduction to the new tenants on the street.
She prompted me with, "Do you want to try something really delicious?" Of course I did, but when we walked into a clothing store, I was utterly confused. Valley is not only a clothing store but also a waxing boutique and the only place in Manhattan to get real açai, (the Brazilian berry that has more antioxidants than blueberries) and a full bottle of red wine. Sisters Nina and Julia, who did time in South America and in health-conscious L.A., run the shop and are succeeding at being the neighborhood one-stop shop for debonair girls.
We requested our açai and Julia slipped behind a secret door leading to the kitchen. When she emerged, she was holding a tray with two small wooden bowls of what looked like a berry sorbet with granola on top. Their mother, we discovered, makes the fantastic granola using an Aga oven in the Berkshires. The pinkish-purple frozen heap turned out to be the mysterious açai. Apparently, the berry itself, which tastes like a mixture of chocolate, blueberry and banana, is frozen and then blended into a puree without the addition of anything except the occasional banana. The berry smoothie is both refreshing and exotic.
Speaking of exotic, the following pit stop was the much-publicized Roasting Plant. Here, in Wonka-like fashion, beans shoot through tubes from roaster to grinder to cup when you place an order. It's an unbelievable process that truly delivers the goods.
The tour was lovely, and upon returning to the restaurant I discovered that things have also changed at Little Giant. Before it was the sticky toffee pudding that revolutionized the block, but now everyone is drawn to LG for the salted caramel pudding. Served in a mug with olive oil crème and a thin tuile, there's not much better in town. It's simultaneously sweet and savory, and is delicious when paired with either a tea or an after-dinner drink. There's another new addition: LUNCH. In an effort to serve the neighborhood, Little Giant is now open for lunch, so those craving swine and biscuits don't have to wait til sundown.
She prompted me with, "Do you want to try something really delicious?" Of course I did, but when we walked into a clothing store, I was utterly confused. Valley is not only a clothing store but also a waxing boutique and the only place in Manhattan to get real açai, (the Brazilian berry that has more antioxidants than blueberries) and a full bottle of red wine. Sisters Nina and Julia, who did time in South America and in health-conscious L.A., run the shop and are succeeding at being the neighborhood one-stop shop for debonair girls.
We requested our açai and Julia slipped behind a secret door leading to the kitchen. When she emerged, she was holding a tray with two small wooden bowls of what looked like a berry sorbet with granola on top. Their mother, we discovered, makes the fantastic granola using an Aga oven in the Berkshires. The pinkish-purple frozen heap turned out to be the mysterious açai. Apparently, the berry itself, which tastes like a mixture of chocolate, blueberry and banana, is frozen and then blended into a puree without the addition of anything except the occasional banana. The berry smoothie is both refreshing and exotic.
Speaking of exotic, the following pit stop was the much-publicized Roasting Plant. Here, in Wonka-like fashion, beans shoot through tubes from roaster to grinder to cup when you place an order. It's an unbelievable process that truly delivers the goods.
The tour was lovely, and upon returning to the restaurant I discovered that things have also changed at Little Giant. Before it was the sticky toffee pudding that revolutionized the block, but now everyone is drawn to LG for the salted caramel pudding. Served in a mug with olive oil crème and a thin tuile, there's not much better in town. It's simultaneously sweet and savory, and is delicious when paired with either a tea or an after-dinner drink. There's another new addition: LUNCH. In an effort to serve the neighborhood, Little Giant is now open for lunch, so those craving swine and biscuits don't have to wait til sundown.
Debra's Granola
Fairway shoppers are some of the luckiest in the city, not just because of the dirt-cheap prices compared to other Upper West Side grocers. Fairway is the only place in the city that carries a continuous stock of Stark Sister's Granola, the delicious invention of Debra Stark. She developed the granola from her grandfather's family recipe, available in Nutty Maple, Lo-Fat Raspberry Blueberry, and Original Maple Almond, for her Concord, Massachusetts natural food store.
After you purchase your first pound, you'll want to experiment with the recipes she features on her website. The Nectarine Granola Cobbler is a stand out. If you can't make it to Fairway, you can order it directly from Debra's Natural Gourmet. Dish clients will be receiving samples this week.
After you purchase your first pound, you'll want to experiment with the recipes she features on her website. The Nectarine Granola Cobbler is a stand out. If you can't make it to Fairway, you can order it directly from Debra's Natural Gourmet. Dish clients will be receiving samples this week.
Aurora: Version Soho
I had the chance to go to Aurora in Brooklyn about a month ago. I'd heard that this much-loved Williamsburg Italian spot was opening in Soho and I wanted to scope out the original before diving into the offshoot. My experience then was impeccable, and I am happy to report that the Broome Street rendition is just as delicious.
My copy editor/literary agent, a self-proclaimed picky eater with a penchant for mushrooms and pasta, was in heaven when she and I sat down to eat at one of the rustic tables last month. Traditional, spot-on dishes like the pizzetta with proscuitto and buffalo mozzarella and the octopus and wax bean salad are stand out starters. Follow them up with one of the "fatti in casa" pastas. Of course, we were partial to the ravioli, which came ladled with morels, hen of the woods, and crimini 'shrooms. This Aurora captures the same earthy, homey vibe as its original, with Italian speaking waiters and fare that's just simply fantastic. Welcome to the 'hood!
My copy editor/literary agent, a self-proclaimed picky eater with a penchant for mushrooms and pasta, was in heaven when she and I sat down to eat at one of the rustic tables last month. Traditional, spot-on dishes like the pizzetta with proscuitto and buffalo mozzarella and the octopus and wax bean salad are stand out starters. Follow them up with one of the "fatti in casa" pastas. Of course, we were partial to the ravioli, which came ladled with morels, hen of the woods, and crimini 'shrooms. This Aurora captures the same earthy, homey vibe as its original, with Italian speaking waiters and fare that's just simply fantastic. Welcome to the 'hood!
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