Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Artichoke Attraction

I’ve been on a bit of an artichoke kick this week. After seeing they’d swapped out my asparagus quinoa salad at Raoul’s for an artichoke with said grain, I had to do a taste test (I loved that asparagus dish!). I was pleasantly surprised, being presented with a whole, perfectly steamed artichoke stuffed with arugula and roquettes. On the side was Raoul’s legendary vinaigrette and beneath the ‘choke was a subtle bed of quinoa.

It was a little difficult to adeptly eat, and perhaps it wasn’t the best thing to order on a first date. However, I enjoyed the intricacy of plucking off leaves, scooping quinoa from beneath, and forking a little salad from the middle all the same. There is always something a little childish about ordering a full artichoke—the idea of eating with your hands and eating a meal of one big, funny looking globe. Regardless of the mechanics of eating the dish, if you’re an artichoke purist, Raoul’s version is sure to please.

If you want something a little more favorable to date politesse, the fried ‘chokes at Mercat are one of my favorite things on the menu. You only have to cut them in half once with your fork to make them bite sized, but the fried consistency still makes them a little tough to eat. Luckily, you’ll be rewarded, as every fried bit consists of at least a quarter of the sumptuous heart.

Easiest to eat are the artichokes at Bar Jamon—a Gramercy niche I’d forgotten about until I was in the neighborhood for a concert a few weeks ago. A plate of grilled and then marinated morsels make for simple nibbling. The piquant marinade softens the vegetable into an altogether manageable mouthful. The platter is sprinkled liberally with pickled lemon rinds that pick up the dish. Cut into a heart, spear a piece of the lemon rind, and you’ve got an easy to eat, delicious bite of a sometimes-unruly vegetable. If you’re worried about date-etiquette eating, Bar Jamon might be the place to come if you’re in the mood for artichokes.

Or, if you want to hang in, artichokes are super easy to prepare, inexpensive, and a little romantic. Simply boil or steam them whole until tender—about fifteen minutes. Let them cool a little and serve them with something creamy for dipping. Try mixing some balsamic vinegar and mayonnaise together for a balsamic mayo sauce.

Maoz

When Maoz came to Union Square last month, I couldn’t figure out what the big deal was. To me, it just seemed like another little falafel joint except with the gimmick of having a self-serve topping bar from which you could load up on spicy carrots, baby eggplant, and extra tahini sauce.

However, speak to anyone who has been to a Maoz in Europe, and there is an instant spark in their eyes. Maoz is dedicated to simplicity and freshness of ingredients. The menu is all vegetarian and consists of very few items, mainly because the point is for you to choose your own favorites from the bar of salads and spreads.

For traditionalists, Maoz might not cut it, but for those who like the accoutrements, stop into Maoz when you’ve got time to linger and refill your pita.

Out of the Kitchen, Into The Dish

Out of the Kitchen has moved to a bigger, better, more attractive space and business is booming. People in the ‘hood who were used to making a quick pit stop to pick up a top notch sandwich are having to get used to sharing their secret. The new store is more appealing—all of the selections can clearly be seen via expansive counter space and more visible prep space. The new location also includes about ten tables that fill up fast Monday through Friday with what seems like every employee working in the Saatchi & Saatchi building.

The menu is still intact—or else the neighbors and regulars would have a coup. Selections the Dish recommends include the hearty avocado and Muenster sandwich on wheat; cupcakes that are secretly the most outstanding in the city; perfect squares of rice krispy’s; and the chicken and eggplant salad. Out of the Kitchen, with its new digs, can only continue to go up.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Nat’s Ribenasicles

In my recent support of the Little Britian Block, I’ve discovered, as referenced last week, Ribena, a black currant syrup that Brits have lovingly been adding to their water and seltzer water for many years.


I got a hold of a bottle and haven’t been able to stop thinking of inventive uses for it. I started by adding it to Sprite; then I moved up and added it to sparkling wine to make a sort of Kir Royale spin-off for a few dinner parties.



My most recent discovery is Ribena Popsicles. I’ve long had a love for popsicles, so it was only natural to try to make the thick black current elixir into one.



Mash black berries or blueberries in a bowl. Cover with Ribena. Add three times the amount of water as Ribena. Pour into popsicle molds. Freeze

Perilla

One of my assistants text-messaged me that The Dish’s Dishes had officially been published in the Times while I was sitting at the bar in Perilla. So perhaps my glowing remarks on the restaurant—from it’s delicate and delicious fare to it’s genteel wait staff and lighthearted mood—are a bit affected.

However, I had gone to Perilla a day after the opening evening with a touch of skepticism. After all, not only was I storming the place too early after their opening when the menu was still being tweaked and perfected, but also because I had my reservations about a Top Chef alum starting a new restaurant. What I learned, however, is that none of that matters when it’s Harold Dieterle behind the scenes.


Perched on stools, my buddy and I ordered Taylor Bay scallops on the half shell as a preliminary nibble. What arrived were six poppy seed soaked morsels of incredible flavor. Set in a base of ramps, the scallops were a perfect opening salvo, not just to our meal, but to spring as well.


Soon after we’d slurped the shells clean, a bowl of hamachi came, basking in tomato water and yuzu. The combination was ambrosial. Accompanied by a small cucumber salad, the dish was both light and meaty. After we ate the fish, we dunked bread into the broth to soak up the last remaining drops.


We couldn’t resist ordering the fiddlehead fern ravioli—another nod to springtime. The result was as delicious as our other treasures, with ricotta and fiddleheads stuffed inside the dough and morels and fava beans liberally surrounding them.


We’d eaten light and awarded ourselves two desserts: the strawberry confit—a dish practically jumping off the page at me—and the chocolate fondant with pistachio ‘scream. Our set up at the bar was so pleasant that we tried to linger over our desserts for as long as we could, not wanting to give up our seats to the next patrons.


Perilla is, from day one, making its mark as a fantastic restaurant and is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.



Madagascar Book Signing

Mark your calendars for our Mankafo Sakafo Cookbook Launch Party and Book Signing to introduce food from Madagascar to Manhattan.


Besides having books available for purchase, come to get a taste of delicious Malagasy cuisine. We’ll be serving a number of traditional dishes featured in the book. Malagasy cuisine is rich in coconuts and curries, as well as avocados, bananas, and hot peppers. They douse saka­y—a hot pepper relish—on everything, and depending on which type of peppers you use for the mixture determines the heat of the condiment. The most macho men are always in charge of mashing the peppers for the mix.



The can’t-miss event will be this Thursday, May 24th. The event will be held from 8-10pm at Little Magazine Café on Hudson Street just south of Laight Street. Come meet the author and have a glass of wine to celebrate this exciting occasion!

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Mojo Cafe



A little café just opened up around the corner from my office, and it’s attracting the entire neighborhood. Mojo Café at 128 Charles Street is just five tables plus a six-seat raised, communal one. With Mojo’s wireless Internet and banana bread, it’s hard to bypass the new ‘hood hang out.


You’re bound to end up sitting next to your neighbor at one of the charming, little tables that are made from tree trunk medallions. The street façade is one big window that streams the rustic interior with light.


Besides house made banana bread, there’s ginger lemonade, crunchy chocolate chip cookies (also homemade) and rice krispy treats to lure you in. An upcoming café menu will ensure that the neighbors never go home.