I was all geared up to wax poetic about Scott Conant’s new place on 14th street that’s been garnering all kinds of praise. I dined there prior to the Bruni three stars and Platt’s exclamation of the food as “almost priestly.” And I cannot deny that the food at Scarpetta made an impression on me. However, the crowd was boisterous, making the already brazen dining room too loud. In the Diner’s Journal last week, Bruni talked about a restaurant’s clientele adding to (or subtracting) from a restaurant experience. Did he have Scarpetta to himself when he reviewed it?
I think I could have put all the pomp aside and chosen to focus on the high quality food if I had not, the very next night, gone to Barosa, a real Italian restaurant in my very Italian neighborhood. I do not have space to discuss each individual aspect of the two evenings so I will analyze the first impressions, because they both essentially mirror the dinners that ensued thereafter.
At Scarpetta, I sat at the bar before being seated. I ordered a cocktail on their list that, it turned out, tasted like cough medicine. After one sip I ordered another drink. The bartender did not ask me if anything was wrong with the one I’d just ordered and was ignoring; he simply poured my new request. All fine except while closing out before we went to the table, we saw that we had been charged for this putrid syrup. We made no fuss about it, but something about the first interaction—this act that left me feeling ripped off and not personally cared about—wholly permeated the dinner. The entire thing felt programmed (as have the reviews: Ah! Scott Conant! We are supposed to like him, right?! These reviews seem a little hyperbolic).
At Barosa, we were greeted with a warm welcome from the owner, told we could sit anywhere that was open (the restaurant was equally as full as Scarpetta), and when I asked about a four-top, our host proclaimed, “whatever makes you happy will make me happy.” Ahhh, well said. The repast that followed was friendly, delicious, and came with a free tiramisu when they’d run out of our requested cannoli.
Conant’s family is Italian and he may cook a wonderful rendition of spaghetti, but before you believe Bruni’s claim that, “it’s the best dish of its kind in the city,” just give it a try from the fellas in Brooklyn. A three-star Italian restaurant should be more than Italian food; it should be an Italian experience.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
My Birthday
The Icebox cake recipe dates back to 1930, when it was first printed on Nabisco Chocolate Wafer boxes—classic cookies that are difficult to find now. Any old chocolate wafer is fine to use, but it’s important to use fresh whipped cream in my opinion, sweetened with plenty of sugar and vanilla. August is my birthday month and this year I want an icebox birthday cake. Icebox cakes are so cool—actually literally. This no-bake treat is simply layers of whipped cream and chocolate wafers that get mushy while the zebra-like stack sets up in the fridge. When it emerges, cleanly cut into the layers to reveal the black and white sheets of cream and chocolate. Garnish it with chocolate curls or raspberries or birthday candles and it’ll surely be a crowd-pleaser. Or, a me-pleaser.
My [Dinner] at Paloma
It all seemed like a dream. The Greenpoint restaurant emerged like an oasis on a relatively deserted neighborhood block. High ceilings, walls of rotating artwork, a projector showing an old movie, and lively music invites diners to take a seat at Top Chef Season Three contestant Camilla Becerra’s Paloma.
We started out our meal with charred octopus served with a citrusy garlic aioli and scallops accompanied by red lentil fritters. Both tasted heavenly—the charred flavor balanced by the cool aioli and the crunch of the fritters with the tender bivalves. We had to pinch ourselves to ensure this was reality.
The seabass special with beet greens and a pico de gallo plus a vegetarian stuffed poblano engorged with calabasa pumpkin, quinoa and cheddar made up dinner; plus a side of onion rings for good measure…hey, if this was a dream, why not go all out?
A caramel chocolate tart, a slice of nectarine mascarpone pie and a Tom Colicchio spotting later, we weren’t sure if we’d woken up yet. So, unless it was a figment of my imagination, get to Paloma!
We started out our meal with charred octopus served with a citrusy garlic aioli and scallops accompanied by red lentil fritters. Both tasted heavenly—the charred flavor balanced by the cool aioli and the crunch of the fritters with the tender bivalves. We had to pinch ourselves to ensure this was reality.
The seabass special with beet greens and a pico de gallo plus a vegetarian stuffed poblano engorged with calabasa pumpkin, quinoa and cheddar made up dinner; plus a side of onion rings for good measure…hey, if this was a dream, why not go all out?
A caramel chocolate tart, a slice of nectarine mascarpone pie and a Tom Colicchio spotting later, we weren’t sure if we’d woken up yet. So, unless it was a figment of my imagination, get to Paloma!
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Charleston Gems
Dining out in Charleston was a seafood lovers dream. From crab dip to she-crab soup to thick rings of calamari… anything from the ocean ended up on our plates. We did our best not to overeat at every meal and had to resort to ordering mostly appetizers at each restaurant because we knew we wouldn’t be able to control ourselves once the food was dropped at our table.
Of course our first stop was 82 Queen, the restaurant where my sweet friend used to work in another life and where he expertly learned to make the crab cakes that I reference every few newsletters. Crab cake lived up to—maybe even defied—its reputation. Served with a tomato remoulade and a splash of red pepper coulis, the plump puck of crab was a perfect way to pop our Charleston dining cherry. She-crab soup was also incredibly tasty, especially after I was instructed to dribble a few drops of sherry onto each spoonful. Shrimp and grits were barbecue-y and creamy. We were grateful for the small portion, knowing that we’d have been in food comatose for the rest of the day had we been presented with any more.
At Blossom, we miraculously avoided the calamari—an item on which we consistently are feeding—but could not resist ordering another crab cake. This one came with asparagus and mustard. We liked it as we like most crab-packed cakes and these were especially so, though nothing rivaled the nostalgically delicious 82 Queen rendition. The scallops at Blossom were fantastic in their own rite. Accompanied by sweet onion polenta flecked with applewood smoked bacon and a drizzle of brandied apple jus, the scallop dish was a frenetic fusion of crispy and creamy, of sweet and savory. An herb-roasted portabella mushroom salad with pecorino and apples was an excellent supplement to the seafood.
The culmination of our dining exploits came at Fleet’s Landing where we indulged in fried green tomatoes with blue crab, old bay dusted shrimp, cold crab dip—our favorite of the trip, and, because we could resist no longer, “steak” calamari—which turned out to be extremely thick, buttermilk-drenched, and addictive.
We were able only to put a small dent in the sea-soaked world of Charleston cuisine; however, I foresee us diving back in very soon. You can never have too many crab cakes.
Of course our first stop was 82 Queen, the restaurant where my sweet friend used to work in another life and where he expertly learned to make the crab cakes that I reference every few newsletters. Crab cake lived up to—maybe even defied—its reputation. Served with a tomato remoulade and a splash of red pepper coulis, the plump puck of crab was a perfect way to pop our Charleston dining cherry. She-crab soup was also incredibly tasty, especially after I was instructed to dribble a few drops of sherry onto each spoonful. Shrimp and grits were barbecue-y and creamy. We were grateful for the small portion, knowing that we’d have been in food comatose for the rest of the day had we been presented with any more.
At Blossom, we miraculously avoided the calamari—an item on which we consistently are feeding—but could not resist ordering another crab cake. This one came with asparagus and mustard. We liked it as we like most crab-packed cakes and these were especially so, though nothing rivaled the nostalgically delicious 82 Queen rendition. The scallops at Blossom were fantastic in their own rite. Accompanied by sweet onion polenta flecked with applewood smoked bacon and a drizzle of brandied apple jus, the scallop dish was a frenetic fusion of crispy and creamy, of sweet and savory. An herb-roasted portabella mushroom salad with pecorino and apples was an excellent supplement to the seafood.
The culmination of our dining exploits came at Fleet’s Landing where we indulged in fried green tomatoes with blue crab, old bay dusted shrimp, cold crab dip—our favorite of the trip, and, because we could resist no longer, “steak” calamari—which turned out to be extremely thick, buttermilk-drenched, and addictive.
We were able only to put a small dent in the sea-soaked world of Charleston cuisine; however, I foresee us diving back in very soon. You can never have too many crab cakes.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
My Favorites from our Sophomore Year
My favorite “frills” new restaurant of the year was Elettaria. Chef Nawab is just doing such interesting things on the plate and the space is truly stunning. I don’t know if this restaurant has staying power, or if the chef will run out of ideas, but it is truly inspired cuisine.
My favorite “a little frilly” new restaurant is Naka Naka. It isn’t very new, but it’s very good. It’s a small Japanese restaurant in Chelsea; very quiet, very romantic.
The “no-frills” newbie that takes the cake is Miss Favela, the Brazilian place under the Williamsburg bridge that cranks fun music and flavor-packed food out all night.
My favorite outdoor dining/I would like to have a private dinner party in their garden restaurant is BoBo. The townhouse resto was doomed with a bad chef but then got a really, really great chef. Everything we tasted was delicious and the space is so lovely. Sit outside for sure.
My favorite Brooklyn restaurant is not a new one, but it’s outstanding. Go to Savoia, in Carroll Gardens, for the artichoke and calamari fritter and for the eggplant caponata with shrimp. These dishes should be in the 1000 Things To Do Before You Die book.
The most decadent dessert I had was a caramel chocolate tart at Marlow and Sons. It was a solid wedge of the two title ingredients held up by a graham/shortbread crust and dusted with salt. Brilliant.
My favorite little piece of perfection was the “spices” truffle from MarieBelle. I have no idea what was going on with it, but it was heaven.
As far as dining in, the crab cakes that my boyfriend makes are probably the very best food of that type that I’ve tasted. He learned while working as a restaurant in Charleston and has since perfected them. I gave the recipe in a spring DISH and I suggest that every guy learn to make this recipe. Every girl, too.
When I have cooked this year, I have found myself going back to the Honga’s Lotus Petal Cookbook. Honga’s Lotus Petal is my family’s favorite restaurant in Telluride, Colorado. Since we have been patrons (18 years!), Honga has had to move her restaurant to a larger location three times because she keeps getting more and more popular every year! This year, she and I swapped cookbooks and I have used her recipes as many times as I’ve cooked the recipes in my own.
My favorite “a little frilly” new restaurant is Naka Naka. It isn’t very new, but it’s very good. It’s a small Japanese restaurant in Chelsea; very quiet, very romantic.
The “no-frills” newbie that takes the cake is Miss Favela, the Brazilian place under the Williamsburg bridge that cranks fun music and flavor-packed food out all night.
My favorite outdoor dining/I would like to have a private dinner party in their garden restaurant is BoBo. The townhouse resto was doomed with a bad chef but then got a really, really great chef. Everything we tasted was delicious and the space is so lovely. Sit outside for sure.
My favorite Brooklyn restaurant is not a new one, but it’s outstanding. Go to Savoia, in Carroll Gardens, for the artichoke and calamari fritter and for the eggplant caponata with shrimp. These dishes should be in the 1000 Things To Do Before You Die book.
The most decadent dessert I had was a caramel chocolate tart at Marlow and Sons. It was a solid wedge of the two title ingredients held up by a graham/shortbread crust and dusted with salt. Brilliant.
My favorite little piece of perfection was the “spices” truffle from MarieBelle. I have no idea what was going on with it, but it was heaven.
As far as dining in, the crab cakes that my boyfriend makes are probably the very best food of that type that I’ve tasted. He learned while working as a restaurant in Charleston and has since perfected them. I gave the recipe in a spring DISH and I suggest that every guy learn to make this recipe. Every girl, too.
When I have cooked this year, I have found myself going back to the Honga’s Lotus Petal Cookbook. Honga’s Lotus Petal is my family’s favorite restaurant in Telluride, Colorado. Since we have been patrons (18 years!), Honga has had to move her restaurant to a larger location three times because she keeps getting more and more popular every year! This year, she and I swapped cookbooks and I have used her recipes as many times as I’ve cooked the recipes in my own.
No Nonsense
Inevitably, there are always a few restaurants that you go to again and again that aren’t anything special, but then again, they just are.
My favorite no-nonsense restaurant that I tried for the first time this year is an old place on my block called La Locanda. Here, the Italian owner makes the fusilli and cavatelli each day. The single room is stark but the tantalizing smells and friendly neighborhood atmosphere compensate for it.
Besides homemade pastas, bread too is made in-house, calamari comes with a tasty spicy sauce, a plate of marinated mushrooms will last a week, and mozzarella en carozza is fried to a golden brown. Don’t miss asking for your pasta arrabiata, they do this spicy rendition here perfectly.
2nd Anniversary Dish!
This issue marks the closing of the DISH’s second year! Every week for 104 weeks on end, the DISH has been here to feed you tasty morsels of information about New York’s ever-evolving dining scene. We’ve eaten healthy, unhealthy, in dives, and in four-star restaurants. We’ve also tested recipes, talked to chefs, and shared home-cooking secrets.
Starting with Volume 3, the DISH will be enhancing its format by shifting to a monthly newsletter instead of weekly. YES, it will still come on Tuesdays; however, only the first Tuesday of each month.
With this new format, we will be expanding our focus to encompass not just the five boroughs of New York, but instead, every nook and cranny of the globe! From Nicaragua to Nigeria to the Netherlands, the sky’s the limit to this new year of tasting! With the new worldly content, we hope to expand your palates, your curiosity, and your imagination!
Starting with Volume 3, the DISH will be enhancing its format by shifting to a monthly newsletter instead of weekly. YES, it will still come on Tuesdays; however, only the first Tuesday of each month.
With this new format, we will be expanding our focus to encompass not just the five boroughs of New York, but instead, every nook and cranny of the globe! From Nicaragua to Nigeria to the Netherlands, the sky’s the limit to this new year of tasting! With the new worldly content, we hope to expand your palates, your curiosity, and your imagination!
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