I add cinnamon to just about everything. I double the amount in my baking, and I toss in at least a pinch of it in the savory dishes I make. Whether it’s lentil soup or braised pork, adding cinnamon to almost anything makes it taste better.
The evergreen tree from which cinnamon is derived comes from Sri Lanka, and it’s the bark of the tree that is ground into the beloved spice. As the bark is ground into bits, it releases an essential oil that gives it the aroma to which we are accustomed.
Cinnamon trees are grown for only two years, at which point they are cut down so that little branches will sprout up from the roots. The outer bark is stripped away to 1/2 mm “quills.” These quills are what we use for stirring our hot chocolate.
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Stretching Mozzarella at Joe’s Dairy
Joe’s Dairy on Sullivan Street has been a New York favorite for mozzarella since the 1930s. Tuesday through Saturday, patrons will find second- generation mozzarella messiah Anthony Campanelli dunking his dairy-weathered hands into a stockpot of scalding water atop a standard Manhattan stove he’s rigged to heat up to commercial kitchen degrees.
He forms and reforms the raw cheese and stretches the long, thick mozzarella rope the full length of his arms, and then ties it off into the familiar balls we see in the latteria. All day he works, making an average of 1,200 pounds of mozzarella, which he sends to various cheese shops and restaurants and sells directly from the shop.
Mozzarella comes fresh or smoked, salted, lightly salted or unsalted. I recently discovered that the counter woman makes fresh cheese sandwiches. When recently picking up a few mozz-knots, I noticed her making a sammy for a customer ahead of me. When it was my turn, I added one to my order. She sliced open a foot-long ciabatta and stuffed in five thick slabs of cheese. Then she loaded it with roasted red peppers. The result was an incredibly simple yet delicious combo. Sauce-free and spice-free, the sandwich depends on the pure flavors and texture of the cheese, the peppers, and the bread. And, indeed, the trifecta works well. And, the beloved counter lady double seals it first in saran wrap and then in a brown bag to the juices and aromas stay where they belong.
This sandwich is the best deal in town. At $6, that’s 50 cents per inch of top quality, uber-fresh mozzarella, not to mention the **homemade** peppers and the Grandaisy bread. By using such incredible ingredients, the simple sandwich is as satisfying as can be.
Recipe
Grandaisy ciabatta, sliced Joe’s mozzarella, sliced in rounds, roasted red peppers in their Juice
1. lay desired amount of cheese and peppers on bread
2. close sandwich, slice in half, and enjoy!
He forms and reforms the raw cheese and stretches the long, thick mozzarella rope the full length of his arms, and then ties it off into the familiar balls we see in the latteria. All day he works, making an average of 1,200 pounds of mozzarella, which he sends to various cheese shops and restaurants and sells directly from the shop.
Mozzarella comes fresh or smoked, salted, lightly salted or unsalted. I recently discovered that the counter woman makes fresh cheese sandwiches. When recently picking up a few mozz-knots, I noticed her making a sammy for a customer ahead of me. When it was my turn, I added one to my order. She sliced open a foot-long ciabatta and stuffed in five thick slabs of cheese. Then she loaded it with roasted red peppers. The result was an incredibly simple yet delicious combo. Sauce-free and spice-free, the sandwich depends on the pure flavors and texture of the cheese, the peppers, and the bread. And, indeed, the trifecta works well. And, the beloved counter lady double seals it first in saran wrap and then in a brown bag to the juices and aromas stay where they belong.
This sandwich is the best deal in town. At $6, that’s 50 cents per inch of top quality, uber-fresh mozzarella, not to mention the **homemade** peppers and the Grandaisy bread. By using such incredible ingredients, the simple sandwich is as satisfying as can be.
Recipe
Grandaisy ciabatta, sliced Joe’s mozzarella, sliced in rounds, roasted red peppers in their Juice
1. lay desired amount of cheese and peppers on bread
2. close sandwich, slice in half, and enjoy!
Enjoy Over 25 Varieties of U-Pick Apples
Going apple-picking is a quintessentially glorious activity in September and October. Happily, New York State grows a large assortment of Johnny Appleseed’s favorite fruit, with many varieties available at U-Pick orchards.
Every year, jealous family members who live in the Mid-West ask me how I am enjoying my Crispins, my Ginger Golds, and my Honeycrisps. Sardonically, I remark that they are wonderful, but what about the Liberties, the Newton Pippins, and the Jonamacs?! Surely, apple-loving New Yorkers are a lucky bunch with well over 25 varieties.
www.nyapplecountry.com is a great website to get a complete listing of the U-Pick orchards in greater New York. I always brag to those Midwestern relatives when I am driving up to the orchard. But they’ve got the leg-up on me there: there are always better corn mazes in Ohio!
Every year, jealous family members who live in the Mid-West ask me how I am enjoying my Crispins, my Ginger Golds, and my Honeycrisps. Sardonically, I remark that they are wonderful, but what about the Liberties, the Newton Pippins, and the Jonamacs?! Surely, apple-loving New Yorkers are a lucky bunch with well over 25 varieties.
www.nyapplecountry.com is a great website to get a complete listing of the U-Pick orchards in greater New York. I always brag to those Midwestern relatives when I am driving up to the orchard. But they’ve got the leg-up on me there: there are always better corn mazes in Ohio!
Tuesday, September 19, 2006
Apple Pie and an Appealing Tool, Too
As apple pie season rounds the corner, I am reminded of one of my family’s favorite kitchen gadgets, the Apple Peel Away. This device allows brothers, fathers, family guests, and the culinarily challenged to help out with pie prep while enjoying the fruits of kitchen camaraderie.
The contraption clamps to any counter; the apple goes on the end of a sharp, rotating prong that spirals into to a corer/ peeler/slicer device. Turning a crank, the magic happens and out comes an apple that has been cored, peeled, and sliced into an accordion-like helix that tempts creative (or destructive, depends on how you look at it) brothers to employ the apple as a slinky.
Slinky substitute aside, the Peel Away makes perfect apple slices for apple pies. They are 1/4” thin, totally skinless, and ready to be piled high in a homemade (or store-bought) piecrust.
The contraption clamps to any counter; the apple goes on the end of a sharp, rotating prong that spirals into to a corer/ peeler/slicer device. Turning a crank, the magic happens and out comes an apple that has been cored, peeled, and sliced into an accordion-like helix that tempts creative (or destructive, depends on how you look at it) brothers to employ the apple as a slinky.
Slinky substitute aside, the Peel Away makes perfect apple slices for apple pies. They are 1/4” thin, totally skinless, and ready to be piled high in a homemade (or store-bought) piecrust.
One Clients’ Recipe for Success (at least, a successful dinner)
A Dish’s Dish client tried her hand in the kitchen and got great results with this recipe.
Roasted Autumn Vegetable Salad with Maple-Cider Dressing
2 tbs olive oil
2 tbs butter
1 tbs honey
1 clove garlic, minced
4 slices pumpkin, cheese pumpkin, or kabocha squash, skin on, seeds removed
4 parsnips, halved lengthwise (quartered if thick)
4 carrots, halved lengthwise (quartered if thick)
4 small sunchokes, halved
2 red onions, sliced into 1/4” rounds
2 or 3 sprigs rosemary, or thyme
12 fresh sage leaves
2 red apples, cored and cut into 1/4” thick rounds
Salt and pepper to taste
12 pecorino romano shavings
Dressing:
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1/2tsp Dijon mustard
A bit of minced garlic
1 tsp maple syrup
1 tbs walnut oil
2 tbs olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1.Preheat oven to 400. Prep vegetables.
2.Combine the olive oil, butter, honey, and garlic in a baking dish and place in oven very briefly so that contents melt together. Remove baking dish from oven; add all the vegetables and rosemary or thyme and toss to coat.
3.Bake another 15 minutes, gently stir, add sage leaves, and season with salt and pepper. Return to oven and roast another 20 minutes or until vegetables are golden brown and tender.
4.Add the apple slices during the last 10 minutes of cooking. When done, remove from oven and cool to room temp. Remove the herb sprigs. Set aside.
5.Combine the first four dressing ingredients, then whisk in the oils until combined. Gently toss vegetables in the dressing – add the cheese shavings. Serve at room temp.
Roasted Autumn Vegetable Salad with Maple-Cider Dressing
2 tbs olive oil
2 tbs butter
1 tbs honey
1 clove garlic, minced
4 slices pumpkin, cheese pumpkin, or kabocha squash, skin on, seeds removed
4 parsnips, halved lengthwise (quartered if thick)
4 carrots, halved lengthwise (quartered if thick)
4 small sunchokes, halved
2 red onions, sliced into 1/4” rounds
2 or 3 sprigs rosemary, or thyme
12 fresh sage leaves
2 red apples, cored and cut into 1/4” thick rounds
Salt and pepper to taste
12 pecorino romano shavings
Dressing:
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1/2tsp Dijon mustard
A bit of minced garlic
1 tsp maple syrup
1 tbs walnut oil
2 tbs olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1.Preheat oven to 400. Prep vegetables.
2.Combine the olive oil, butter, honey, and garlic in a baking dish and place in oven very briefly so that contents melt together. Remove baking dish from oven; add all the vegetables and rosemary or thyme and toss to coat.
3.Bake another 15 minutes, gently stir, add sage leaves, and season with salt and pepper. Return to oven and roast another 20 minutes or until vegetables are golden brown and tender.
4.Add the apple slices during the last 10 minutes of cooking. When done, remove from oven and cool to room temp. Remove the herb sprigs. Set aside.
5.Combine the first four dressing ingredients, then whisk in the oils until combined. Gently toss vegetables in the dressing – add the cheese shavings. Serve at room temp.
Searching for Superior Sardines
In the wake of last week’s canned toro article, a reader has requested that The Dish address the too often maligned reputation of another finned delicacy, sardines. Many people have long regarded sardines in the same category as Spam—food of last resort, when the cupboard is bare. However, poking around town, there are a few restaurants that serve sardines that will certainly change minds, and maybe even start a new obsession.
Head to Barney Greengrass for the classic appetizing of sardines, but if you want to ease yourself slowly into the flavor and the idea of eating the little busters, go South to Mary’s Fish Camp where they serve ‘em up fried. At Po, the sardines pop up on a toasted barley salad, and at Hearth, they lay on a bed of savory soffritto.
If you crave a more classic preparation, Peasant’s rendition comes with three big grilled ones. Prune offers them as a bar snack with Triscuits and mustard.
Once you try these versions, you won’t be waiting for any more last resorts.
Head to Barney Greengrass for the classic appetizing of sardines, but if you want to ease yourself slowly into the flavor and the idea of eating the little busters, go South to Mary’s Fish Camp where they serve ‘em up fried. At Po, the sardines pop up on a toasted barley salad, and at Hearth, they lay on a bed of savory soffritto.
If you crave a more classic preparation, Peasant’s rendition comes with three big grilled ones. Prune offers them as a bar snack with Triscuits and mustard.
Once you try these versions, you won’t be waiting for any more last resorts.
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Easy Bake
1963 was a lucky year for little girls. It was the year that the first Easy Bake Oven hit toy stores. In its first year, 500,000 kids took home the turquoise fake oven/stove top combos.
Since its creation, the Easy Bake has changed from turquoise to green to gold to white to pink. The classic, stripped-down model gets embellishments added each year, starting from mini dinner trays to a digital clock and microwave. In every era era, the Easy Bake Oven reflects the style and trends of the times.
Today, according to the Easy Bake website, more than 16 million ovens have been sold. There is even an Easy Bake Oven Gourmet Cookbook if young chefs want to get really ambitious.
Since its creation, the Easy Bake has changed from turquoise to green to gold to white to pink. The classic, stripped-down model gets embellishments added each year, starting from mini dinner trays to a digital clock and microwave. In every era era, the Easy Bake Oven reflects the style and trends of the times.
Today, according to the Easy Bake website, more than 16 million ovens have been sold. There is even an Easy Bake Oven Gourmet Cookbook if young chefs want to get really ambitious.
Brooklyn Bakes
When I consider Brooklyn’s legendary bakeries, I always think of Junior’s, which has been supplying Brooklynites with “the world’s most fabulous cheesecake” for more than 50 years. But there’s more to Brooklyn sugar-love than this well-known, age-old bakery.
Two other Brooklyn sugar shops prove that the schlep from Manhattan is well worth the sugar rush, three-fold.
Cab it out to Red Hook to get one of Steve’s Key Lime Pies. He sells them from a warehouse along pier 41, passed a sign that reads “Pies Here.” He only sells full pies, so go with a friend.
If you just want a slice of sweetness, you can head to Cake Man Raven’s in Fort Greene for a luscious piece of red velvet cake. He is well known for his life-like, life-size cakes, but you can always go in for a hefty slice to tide you over.
Tour the three on a bike and you’ll have room for each one.
Two other Brooklyn sugar shops prove that the schlep from Manhattan is well worth the sugar rush, three-fold.
Cab it out to Red Hook to get one of Steve’s Key Lime Pies. He sells them from a warehouse along pier 41, passed a sign that reads “Pies Here.” He only sells full pies, so go with a friend.
If you just want a slice of sweetness, you can head to Cake Man Raven’s in Fort Greene for a luscious piece of red velvet cake. He is well known for his life-like, life-size cakes, but you can always go in for a hefty slice to tide you over.
Tour the three on a bike and you’ll have room for each one.
Tuesday, September 5, 2006
Chin-What?
What makes your soup so velvety when you dine out? What makes those pancakes at a restaurant brunch so fluffy and even? The answer is a fastidious kitchen tool: a chinoise.
A chinoise is a conical, ultra-fine sieve that chefs (and uber-perfectionist home cooks) use for straining a number of things: sauces, batters, compotes, and soups. It can also be used for dusting powdered sugar, cinnamon, or the like.
A sieve or even a colander are analogous, but when your recipe warrants an ultra smooth concoction, using the chinoise will make the dish. Truly, a key lime pie doesn’t merit much delight if it’s lumpy. The tool is pricey but versatile. And, to enchant the palates of guests, it could be a worthy purchase.
A chinoise is a conical, ultra-fine sieve that chefs (and uber-perfectionist home cooks) use for straining a number of things: sauces, batters, compotes, and soups. It can also be used for dusting powdered sugar, cinnamon, or the like.
A sieve or even a colander are analogous, but when your recipe warrants an ultra smooth concoction, using the chinoise will make the dish. Truly, a key lime pie doesn’t merit much delight if it’s lumpy. The tool is pricey but versatile. And, to enchant the palates of guests, it could be a worthy purchase.
Meanwhile, at my Favorite Diner…
Every person knows the best diner. No matter the neighborhood, the person, or the favorite breakfast platter, everyone thinks that the tastiest eggs over easy and greasy fries come from a local diner sooo under the radar.
It’s the diner with the best potatoes, the crispiest Belgian waffles, or the only shake worth ordering. However, it would be foolish and irresponsible for me to crown my diner with eminent honor. There is a favorite diner in each and every neighborhood that probably deserves an award.
My diner happens to be La Bonbonniere on Eighth Avenue. I am not saying it’s the best diner in the city, but I am saying it’s the best one for me.
Weave through the line on weekends and have a seat at the counter. You have better viewing of the short-order cook who seems to never mess up an order and never stop loading up the griddle with anything from eggs to bacon to burgers to pancakes. He’s got a mound in the corner of chili powdered smashed potatoes that are served alongside most breakfasts. They, I think, are the pinnacle of diner fare. They are browned and well seasoned, and the turnover is so fast that a fresh batch is always waiting to hit your plate.
The food assembly to food-in-mouth lag time is minimal. If you become a regular, the cooks will be able to finish making your dish in the time you’ve enunciated your desired platter, as I’ve seen take place over a “three-scrambled-eggs-with-extra-bacon-and-two-pieces-of-white-toast-and-a-coffee” order.
The standard diner system applies: free coffee refills, ketchup on every table, and a license but no appeal to linger in your seat. Le Bonbonniere is my stand-by for early morning, start-the-day-right meals, for post-jog meals, and for post-late night meals. Each time is as delicious and satisfying as the last. And each time, I think about how I have found the perfect diner.
It’s the diner with the best potatoes, the crispiest Belgian waffles, or the only shake worth ordering. However, it would be foolish and irresponsible for me to crown my diner with eminent honor. There is a favorite diner in each and every neighborhood that probably deserves an award.
My diner happens to be La Bonbonniere on Eighth Avenue. I am not saying it’s the best diner in the city, but I am saying it’s the best one for me.
Weave through the line on weekends and have a seat at the counter. You have better viewing of the short-order cook who seems to never mess up an order and never stop loading up the griddle with anything from eggs to bacon to burgers to pancakes. He’s got a mound in the corner of chili powdered smashed potatoes that are served alongside most breakfasts. They, I think, are the pinnacle of diner fare. They are browned and well seasoned, and the turnover is so fast that a fresh batch is always waiting to hit your plate.
The food assembly to food-in-mouth lag time is minimal. If you become a regular, the cooks will be able to finish making your dish in the time you’ve enunciated your desired platter, as I’ve seen take place over a “three-scrambled-eggs-with-extra-bacon-and-two-pieces-of-white-toast-and-a-coffee” order.
The standard diner system applies: free coffee refills, ketchup on every table, and a license but no appeal to linger in your seat. Le Bonbonniere is my stand-by for early morning, start-the-day-right meals, for post-jog meals, and for post-late night meals. Each time is as delicious and satisfying as the last. And each time, I think about how I have found the perfect diner.
Phenomenal Fromage Hails from Quebec
Le Chevre Noir is delicious on its own as a snack; but it is also fantastic melted on a burger or folded into a frittata. The cheese gives red meat a sharp kick and creamy eggs a savory tang.
The cheese is a fairly common, but rather hidden gem of a cheese. Its reasonable price and lackluster origin make it easy to overlook, but its taste and texture are extraordinary.
It is a raw milk goat’s cheese from Quebec that is aged for one to two years. Wrapped in black wax to guard and add to its moistness, the folks at Murray’s Cheese say it’s made like a cheddar cheese. The semi-firm block has a flavor that matures and unfolds on your palate like wine. It is fruity and earthy simultaneously, and the taste seems to linger for quite long. There are notes of vanilla and nuts that make the cheese full bodied--a delight any time.
The cheese is a fairly common, but rather hidden gem of a cheese. Its reasonable price and lackluster origin make it easy to overlook, but its taste and texture are extraordinary.
It is a raw milk goat’s cheese from Quebec that is aged for one to two years. Wrapped in black wax to guard and add to its moistness, the folks at Murray’s Cheese say it’s made like a cheddar cheese. The semi-firm block has a flavor that matures and unfolds on your palate like wine. It is fruity and earthy simultaneously, and the taste seems to linger for quite long. There are notes of vanilla and nuts that make the cheese full bodied--a delight any time.
Monday, September 4, 2006
Dish Favorite After School Snacks
Everyone has a favorite after school or after work snack, whether it is something that your mom gave you growing up or something that you snuck to the corner store to buy yourself. As school starts back up this week, the Dish asks her crew what they after school then and what they eat after work now.
Josie Gordon, Senior Culinistaä, used to eat cheetos and corn chips after a long day of learning. Now, she opts to wind down with vanilla yogurt and Peace brand cereal.
Jennifer Ophir, our Culinistaäwho was recently in Italy teaching traditional Tuscan cuisine used to adore Stella D’Oro Swiss fudge cookies and Dipsy Doodles. Her tastes have changed and now she nibbles on tamari almonds and medjool dates.
Amanda Elliot, another outstanding Culinistaä used to eat green beans or Crispix after school. Her mother also used to bake bread that Amanda ate with butter and cinnamon. These days, though she still adores her childhood treats, she eats mostly nuts.
Nick Horween, Culinistaä and Business Manager, routinely ate apples and cheddar cheese after reading, writing and arithmetic He still adores cheese, but lately, he’s been eating cottage cheese atop greens with truffle oil dressing.
Sarah Chang, the Dish Executive Assistant who’s taking time off in Bueños Aires until December used to stop off at Whole Foods for sushi with her mom on the way home from school. Now, sans mom, she crunches on rice crackers wrapped in nori that she gets from Sunrise Mart.
Katie Han, Press Gal Extraordinaire, used to eat carrots but only if they were served to her with French onion dip. She was also a fan of ham and cheese to tide her over until dinner. Now she goes straight for anything chocolate.
Yours truly was a huge fan of carrots, too. I also liked tacos from a certain place, and I’d get to go if I was with my friend and her babysitter. I still like to eat carrots, but lately I love a piece of toast. Sometimes I top it with honey and sometimes salmon caviar I found cheap in Brighton Beach.
Hopefully the Dish favs will give you a few ideas of your own as you buckle down this fall!
Josie Gordon, Senior Culinistaä, used to eat cheetos and corn chips after a long day of learning. Now, she opts to wind down with vanilla yogurt and Peace brand cereal.
Jennifer Ophir, our Culinistaäwho was recently in Italy teaching traditional Tuscan cuisine used to adore Stella D’Oro Swiss fudge cookies and Dipsy Doodles. Her tastes have changed and now she nibbles on tamari almonds and medjool dates.
Amanda Elliot, another outstanding Culinistaä used to eat green beans or Crispix after school. Her mother also used to bake bread that Amanda ate with butter and cinnamon. These days, though she still adores her childhood treats, she eats mostly nuts.
Nick Horween, Culinistaä and Business Manager, routinely ate apples and cheddar cheese after reading, writing and arithmetic He still adores cheese, but lately, he’s been eating cottage cheese atop greens with truffle oil dressing.
Sarah Chang, the Dish Executive Assistant who’s taking time off in Bueños Aires until December used to stop off at Whole Foods for sushi with her mom on the way home from school. Now, sans mom, she crunches on rice crackers wrapped in nori that she gets from Sunrise Mart.
Katie Han, Press Gal Extraordinaire, used to eat carrots but only if they were served to her with French onion dip. She was also a fan of ham and cheese to tide her over until dinner. Now she goes straight for anything chocolate.
Yours truly was a huge fan of carrots, too. I also liked tacos from a certain place, and I’d get to go if I was with my friend and her babysitter. I still like to eat carrots, but lately I love a piece of toast. Sometimes I top it with honey and sometimes salmon caviar I found cheap in Brighton Beach.
Hopefully the Dish favs will give you a few ideas of your own as you buckle down this fall!
Nalgene Tups
Be invincible to people bumping you and your lunch on the train, in traffic, or in the hallway. With Nalgene’s Lexan containers, your lunch will be safe, and you’ll be stylish!
The Dish team wants the new school year—or simply the fall quarter at work—to be a breeze for those who like to pack a lunch. Nalgene’s line of containers is just the thing for people who prefer to prepare food at home and bring it in to work and school.
4, 8, 6, and 32 oz sizes are available to those eating, or simply storing, food for the go.
They come in green, blue, and clear and are available at most outdoor/camping stores. For these leak-proof, extremely durable vessels, the price ranges from $2 to $8.
The Dish team wants the new school year—or simply the fall quarter at work—to be a breeze for those who like to pack a lunch. Nalgene’s line of containers is just the thing for people who prefer to prepare food at home and bring it in to work and school.
4, 8, 6, and 32 oz sizes are available to those eating, or simply storing, food for the go.
They come in green, blue, and clear and are available at most outdoor/camping stores. For these leak-proof, extremely durable vessels, the price ranges from $2 to $8.
Casa Paradou Pastas To-Go!
Casa Paradou in the Essex Street Market offers delicious homemade pastas that are perfect to take into work or school for a hearty, satisfying lunch.
Large portions of Seven Herb Fettucine, Black Pepper Capellini, and Spinach Linguine will only run you about $7.50. There’s enough for two in these portions or perhaps enough to heat it up for dinner and then pack the rest away for the following days mid-day meal.
Butternut Squash Ravioli or Mushroom Ravioli are deliciously filling ways to get some vegetables into your routine. And, if you feel like being decadent, go for the Duck Confit Ravioli for only a few dollars more.
If you are stocked with pastas at home but want a new way to prepare your pinwheels and gemelli, pick up a portion of Paradou’s sauce: Bolognese, Clam, Fra-Diavolo, and Alfredo only cost $3.50.
Large portions of Seven Herb Fettucine, Black Pepper Capellini, and Spinach Linguine will only run you about $7.50. There’s enough for two in these portions or perhaps enough to heat it up for dinner and then pack the rest away for the following days mid-day meal.
Butternut Squash Ravioli or Mushroom Ravioli are deliciously filling ways to get some vegetables into your routine. And, if you feel like being decadent, go for the Duck Confit Ravioli for only a few dollars more.
If you are stocked with pastas at home but want a new way to prepare your pinwheels and gemelli, pick up a portion of Paradou’s sauce: Bolognese, Clam, Fra-Diavolo, and Alfredo only cost $3.50.
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