Each time I go to France, I raid the supermarket. Yes, in a land of gourmet, fresh food this may sound a bit odd, but there’s a generic brand of French mustard (only available there) that I just cannot live without. Amora fine et forte costs about one euro, and my baggage is usually weighed down with about 15 euros’ worth of the stuff on each return flight.
Amora is smooth mustard with a tangy taste that works on anything from turkey sandwiches to a star ingredient in a punchy salad dressing. I like it on rye toasts with a piece of salami (or, something a little fancier like soppressata).
While the mustard is only available abroad, it is simple to find, so next time you hop on a plane, try to stock up!
Might go wonderfully on some left over Christmas roasts…
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Duck Carbonara
I spent some time with a few friends living in Bordeaux last week. The region is not only known for its wine, but also, for its stock of duck products—from foie gras to smoked duck breast to duck proscuitto.
This fact became painfully obvious after about my third day as a guest of the young couple with whom I was staying. Foie gras toasts as a snack before dinner were not a luxury as much as a repeat offender; duck fat replacing butter to fry onions was commonplace.
I’ll admit that a week was a little heavy for me (don’t forget all those croissants in the morning and the wine we were drinking continuously starting only hours after our first espressos of the day). However, I did snag one very fun recipe. It’s a very simple French-style pasta carbonara with a little twist. Instead of using pancetta, proscuitto, or bacon, use duck proscuitto.
1. Boil spaghetti in well-salted water.
2. Sautee onions and garlic with ample oil until they are very soft.
3. Chop the duck into bits. Add it to the onions.
4. Drain the pasta and mix into the onion mixture.
5. Stir in about a half-cup of crème fraiche. Season with salt and lots of pepper.
6. Crack an egg over the pasta, stir, and serve immediately.
The duck makes for fantastic flavor and also turns the incredibly basic dish into a gourmet delight. By substituting the fancy duck, you could easily serve the carbonara at a dinner party to a standing ovation.
To really go the extra mile, imagine sautéing the onions and garlic in duck fat, and using both the duck proscuitto and then a roasted duck breast, and serving it sliced, atop the warm, sticky pasta.
This fact became painfully obvious after about my third day as a guest of the young couple with whom I was staying. Foie gras toasts as a snack before dinner were not a luxury as much as a repeat offender; duck fat replacing butter to fry onions was commonplace.
I’ll admit that a week was a little heavy for me (don’t forget all those croissants in the morning and the wine we were drinking continuously starting only hours after our first espressos of the day). However, I did snag one very fun recipe. It’s a very simple French-style pasta carbonara with a little twist. Instead of using pancetta, proscuitto, or bacon, use duck proscuitto.
1. Boil spaghetti in well-salted water.
2. Sautee onions and garlic with ample oil until they are very soft.
3. Chop the duck into bits. Add it to the onions.
4. Drain the pasta and mix into the onion mixture.
5. Stir in about a half-cup of crème fraiche. Season with salt and lots of pepper.
6. Crack an egg over the pasta, stir, and serve immediately.
The duck makes for fantastic flavor and also turns the incredibly basic dish into a gourmet delight. By substituting the fancy duck, you could easily serve the carbonara at a dinner party to a standing ovation.
To really go the extra mile, imagine sautéing the onions and garlic in duck fat, and using both the duck proscuitto and then a roasted duck breast, and serving it sliced, atop the warm, sticky pasta.
White Christmas
I am not a huge white chocolate fan but encourage you to try this month’s Bon Appétit recipe for a white chocolate tiramisu trifle with spiced pears. The dessert is simple to make, impressive to serve, and can be simplified and prepared with basic ingredients. The dish is comprised of two parts: spiced pears and white chocolate mascarpone mousse.
I spiced the pears with cinnamon instead of cardamom pods. For the mousse, I used vanilla extract instead of a true vanilla bean. These two modifications made the recipe much less intimidating for me and the result was still extraordinary.
Better yet, you can prepare the components in advance and assemble them á la minute. The final presentation calls for white chocolate curls, but if this seems daunting, just sprinkle some cinnamon atop the pillowy mousse for garnish.
An easy and exciting treat for a white Christmas!
I spiced the pears with cinnamon instead of cardamom pods. For the mousse, I used vanilla extract instead of a true vanilla bean. These two modifications made the recipe much less intimidating for me and the result was still extraordinary.
Better yet, you can prepare the components in advance and assemble them á la minute. The final presentation calls for white chocolate curls, but if this seems daunting, just sprinkle some cinnamon atop the pillowy mousse for garnish.
An easy and exciting treat for a white Christmas!
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Hill Country for Christmas
Hill Country, the BBQ joint that garnered so much press when it opened its doors during the summertime, always seemed to me like more of a wintery type of establishment. And, now that ‘tis the season, I am excited to make this recommendation: regardless of which holiday you choose to celebrate, on December 24th, eat Hill Country
Their per-pound ordering policy makes the hill’ an ideal place if you aren’t sure how many people you’ll end up feeding. When neighbors and friends start calling, you won’t have to turn anyone away.
The moist brisket and the whole roasted chicken are not to be missed. Also, inquiring about meat specials has been a no-fail option during my visits. If you are taking the meal to go, then you can toast the white bread that comes with the meats. I know it isn’t traditional—and that many Texans reading this will put out a warrant for me—but it really makes a better sammy when the bread’s toasted.
Potato Bourbon Mash (very festive, hey?!) and the Beer Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans. I’d also dive into a full 32 oz. portion of the Cool as a Cucumber Salad as a means for cutting the fat and for transitioning between meats and courses. Skillet Cornbread here is standard but sort of a necessity in my opinion. Desserts are not a strong point, but you will probably be too full to eat dessert in any event. If you must have something sweet, the Bourbon Pecan Pie is the best choice. Plus, if there are extra sweet potatoes, you can pile them on top, which is what I did. It’s great! —Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.
If you are carrying out or having delivery, be sure to call a day ahead because a Country Christmas Eve is sure to be a popular proposal this year. And, if you are going to be dining in your home, definitely get extras because this cuisine makes excellent leftovers. Nearly everything gets better on the second day, namely the beans. If there is extra corn bread, make bread pudding with it. Whether you’re ripping open presents or enjoying a quiet day: Happy Holidays!
Their per-pound ordering policy makes the hill’ an ideal place if you aren’t sure how many people you’ll end up feeding. When neighbors and friends start calling, you won’t have to turn anyone away.
The moist brisket and the whole roasted chicken are not to be missed. Also, inquiring about meat specials has been a no-fail option during my visits. If you are taking the meal to go, then you can toast the white bread that comes with the meats. I know it isn’t traditional—and that many Texans reading this will put out a warrant for me—but it really makes a better sammy when the bread’s toasted.
Potato Bourbon Mash (very festive, hey?!) and the Beer Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans. I’d also dive into a full 32 oz. portion of the Cool as a Cucumber Salad as a means for cutting the fat and for transitioning between meats and courses. Skillet Cornbread here is standard but sort of a necessity in my opinion. Desserts are not a strong point, but you will probably be too full to eat dessert in any event. If you must have something sweet, the Bourbon Pecan Pie is the best choice. Plus, if there are extra sweet potatoes, you can pile them on top, which is what I did. It’s great! —Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.
If you are carrying out or having delivery, be sure to call a day ahead because a Country Christmas Eve is sure to be a popular proposal this year. And, if you are going to be dining in your home, definitely get extras because this cuisine makes excellent leftovers. Nearly everything gets better on the second day, namely the beans. If there is extra corn bread, make bread pudding with it. Whether you’re ripping open presents or enjoying a quiet day: Happy Holidays!
Dolce Italiano
Just in time for the holidays, everyone should pick up Gina DePalma’s Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen. I’ve been plowing through these recipes and they keep getting better and better.
I started with a difficult but extremely satisfying cranberry tart for Thanksgiving that Florence Fabricant wrote about in the Times; then I tested the pine nut brittle, which was exceptional—especially when plunged into vanilla ice cream. The citrus glazed polenta cake is better than the picture makes it out to be.
The cookbook is incredibly informative with excellent instructions. I especially like the ten Italian ingredients you should know section, which masks as informational, when in reality it’s a list of ingredients that are just plain ADDICTIVE!
I started with a difficult but extremely satisfying cranberry tart for Thanksgiving that Florence Fabricant wrote about in the Times; then I tested the pine nut brittle, which was exceptional—especially when plunged into vanilla ice cream. The citrus glazed polenta cake is better than the picture makes it out to be.
The cookbook is incredibly informative with excellent instructions. I especially like the ten Italian ingredients you should know section, which masks as informational, when in reality it’s a list of ingredients that are just plain ADDICTIVE!
Quick Entertaining Chocolate Soufflés
I joined a small group of friends in the middle of their evening last week as they were leaving a favorite local restaurant. We made a quick decision to head to our friend Irini Arakas’ apartment to continue the evening. She lamented the fact that she had not cleaned up or prepared for guests; however, when we arrived, no one found the studio messy in the least. And, when I saw that she had Williams Sonoma’s Molten Chocolate Cake Mix on hand, I knew that this would be a
deliciously fun evening. This is, without a doubt, the easiest, quickest, and most satisfying mix I have come across. All one needs is butter and water to combine with the prepackaged mix and chocolate chips. Within only fifteen minutes of bake time, anyone can have extremely impressive looking ramekins of freshly baked soufflés.
The hostess and I quickly baked off a few for the guests and the typical gathering of friends became an evening to remember.
deliciously fun evening. This is, without a doubt, the easiest, quickest, and most satisfying mix I have come across. All one needs is butter and water to combine with the prepackaged mix and chocolate chips. Within only fifteen minutes of bake time, anyone can have extremely impressive looking ramekins of freshly baked soufflés.
The hostess and I quickly baked off a few for the guests and the typical gathering of friends became an evening to remember.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Champagne
I recently came across some very cool Champagne flutes flutes, and, unabashedly, I’d like to mention how badly I want them for a New Years Bash. It is a set of six flutes that are designed to overflow into one another. Each flute, save the sixth, has a little spout on its rim in which the champagne can freely flow from one glass to the next, which is a little shorter. The actual flute is the same size on each glass, but the stem gets slightly shorter with each one, thereby allowing the champagne to easily stream from one glass to the next.
The effect is a lovely champagne waterfall and it really is an efficient way of pouring your bubbly. The flutes of my affection are Zoe-Stanton-designed and dubbed The Fairshare Fountain. Champagne for everyone!
The effect is a lovely champagne waterfall and it really is an efficient way of pouring your bubbly. The flutes of my affection are Zoe-Stanton-designed and dubbed The Fairshare Fountain. Champagne for everyone!
Quinoa Cakes
When a good friend of mine mentioned her slight obsession with the quinoa cakes at Whole Foods, I wanted to see what the fuss was all about. I love quinoa—its grainy flavor, the health benefits, its versatility.
I found the cakes in the pre-packed, refrigerated section of the prepared foods section—my selection did not look so good. But it was very inexpensive—something like $2.85 for two cakes. One I heated in the microwave and it turned out to be a mushy version of a good veggie burger. The second, I heated in a fry pan, which was a much better option, as it crisped up the whole thing.
I wasn’t completely satisfied though and I wanted to try to make my own. After reviewing the Whole Foods ingredients and searching online for quinoa cake recipes, I came up with this recipe. The recipe is a base and many spices and herbs can and should be added to personalize the healthy patties!
{ingredients}
1 cup cooked quinoa
1 egg
2 tbsps oil
¼ cup spinach
¼ cup carrots
¼ cup onion
¼ cup zucchini
1 tbsp tahini
1 tbsp yogurt
¼ cup wheat flour
½ cup baking powder
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper.
{directions}
1.Take one cup of cooked quinoa and mix in one beaten egg.
2. Chop the veggies and sauté them in 1 tbsp oil. Add chopped, sautéed spinach, carrots, onion, and zucchini to quinoa and egg.
3.Add tahini and yogurt.
4.Add wheat flour, baking powder, and lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste.
5.Be sure it’s well mixed. Heat up remaining oil in fry pan.
6.Form the cakes out of the mash and cook them until they are golden brown--about 4 minutes per side.
Voilá! – quinoa cakes of your own!
I found the cakes in the pre-packed, refrigerated section of the prepared foods section—my selection did not look so good. But it was very inexpensive—something like $2.85 for two cakes. One I heated in the microwave and it turned out to be a mushy version of a good veggie burger. The second, I heated in a fry pan, which was a much better option, as it crisped up the whole thing.
I wasn’t completely satisfied though and I wanted to try to make my own. After reviewing the Whole Foods ingredients and searching online for quinoa cake recipes, I came up with this recipe. The recipe is a base and many spices and herbs can and should be added to personalize the healthy patties!
{ingredients}
1 cup cooked quinoa
1 egg
2 tbsps oil
¼ cup spinach
¼ cup carrots
¼ cup onion
¼ cup zucchini
1 tbsp tahini
1 tbsp yogurt
¼ cup wheat flour
½ cup baking powder
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper.
{directions}
1.Take one cup of cooked quinoa and mix in one beaten egg.
2. Chop the veggies and sauté them in 1 tbsp oil. Add chopped, sautéed spinach, carrots, onion, and zucchini to quinoa and egg.
3.Add tahini and yogurt.
4.Add wheat flour, baking powder, and lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste.
5.Be sure it’s well mixed. Heat up remaining oil in fry pan.
6.Form the cakes out of the mash and cook them until they are golden brown--about 4 minutes per side.
Voilá! – quinoa cakes of your own!
Maccarone Masterpieces
If you are looking for a truly unique Santa to decorate your house with or to give to your niece, consider heading to Maccarone Gallery on Greenwich Street. No, no, no… I’m not suggesting you purchase new art for the sake of Christmas. But, then again, Peter Paul Chocolates are artwork. Until Christmas Eve, the gallery has become a fully functioning chocolate factory under the vision of artist Paul McCarthy.
The ten-inch, one pound Santa molds feature the Father Christmas holding a tree and bell and go for $100. It may seem steep, but considering that the edible art was on display at Art Basel Miami over the weekend, this could be the art deal of the century.
Plus, for the epicurean art patrons, this Saint Nick is made with pure Guittard semi-sweet dark chocolate. Production is overseen by author and chocolatier Paul Greweling to be sure that the creative process doesn’t hinder the taste of the piece.
The ten-inch, one pound Santa molds feature the Father Christmas holding a tree and bell and go for $100. It may seem steep, but considering that the edible art was on display at Art Basel Miami over the weekend, this could be the art deal of the century.
Plus, for the epicurean art patrons, this Saint Nick is made with pure Guittard semi-sweet dark chocolate. Production is overseen by author and chocolatier Paul Greweling to be sure that the creative process doesn’t hinder the taste of the piece.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Swingle
Why it is called a swingle remains a mystery, but Steve’s Key Lime Pie frozen and dipped in chocolate is so good that he could call it a chocolate covered hubcap and it’d still be a coveted item.
Deal with the cantankerous attitudes of the staff that works Steve’s on a deserted pier in Red Hook as they pretend that serving customers and doing business is the worst possible thing to happen to them all day and be rewarded with the best key lime pie and the even better invention of the frozen, choco-dipped variety at this strange little alcove.
Steve is extremely particular about his key limes, and therein lies the difference. It is a traditional summertime item, but with winter upon us, everyone could use a little sunshine—even the Steve-minions may secretly be craving it.
Deal with the cantankerous attitudes of the staff that works Steve’s on a deserted pier in Red Hook as they pretend that serving customers and doing business is the worst possible thing to happen to them all day and be rewarded with the best key lime pie and the even better invention of the frozen, choco-dipped variety at this strange little alcove.
Steve is extremely particular about his key limes, and therein lies the difference. It is a traditional summertime item, but with winter upon us, everyone could use a little sunshine—even the Steve-minions may secretly be craving it.
BarFry
With the mixed reviews that Barfry received a few months back, I was hesitant to try it. The idea of a fully fried meal was as enticing as it was terrifying and so the mediocre reviews completely put me on edge. Nevertheless, I’m not one to turn away from shrimp tempura and oyster po’boys, especially when they can be eaten in one sitting, so of course it was only a matter of time before I ventured into the establishment.
My buddy with whom I ate is an excellent dining partner, as he’s never afraid to try the weird things and likes to order in rounds of food. After perusing of the menu and being informed of a wide array of specials, we choose a varied first round of food.
Cape Cod fluke sashimi with a chive-based dressing covering it was a light and refreshing way to dive into a fry-laden meal. Eight pieces of thick white fish went down easily—and too fast in my opinion, as I thought it was a highlight of the meal.
Our oyster po’boy arrived with oysters oozing out every which way of the sandwich, which itself was too burdensome for me to eat without deconstructing it. My guest had no problem; however, and no part went to waste save the bread from my half, which was too large and too hard for me to eat with the gooey bivalves.
A selection of fried items finished our first set of food. Shrimp tempura was my choice; chicken fried steak was my buddy’s. And we preferred our choices, respectively. Tempura pumpkin and shisito peppers were the veggie accompaniments, made much better when dipped into any of the four interesting dipping sauces. I liked the jalapeño-soy and sweet miso while my comrade applied the chili-citrus to everything and dabbled with the wasabi remoulade.
Our second round of tempura was small, but we felt like we couldn’t leave without trying the shitake mushrooms and the scallops, both of which I ended up eating the majority.
My partner was underwhelmed by the ice creams—we chose chamomile, bay leaf, and black sesame. But I’ve never had a bad experience with ice cream.
My buddy with whom I ate is an excellent dining partner, as he’s never afraid to try the weird things and likes to order in rounds of food. After perusing of the menu and being informed of a wide array of specials, we choose a varied first round of food.
Cape Cod fluke sashimi with a chive-based dressing covering it was a light and refreshing way to dive into a fry-laden meal. Eight pieces of thick white fish went down easily—and too fast in my opinion, as I thought it was a highlight of the meal.
Our oyster po’boy arrived with oysters oozing out every which way of the sandwich, which itself was too burdensome for me to eat without deconstructing it. My guest had no problem; however, and no part went to waste save the bread from my half, which was too large and too hard for me to eat with the gooey bivalves.
A selection of fried items finished our first set of food. Shrimp tempura was my choice; chicken fried steak was my buddy’s. And we preferred our choices, respectively. Tempura pumpkin and shisito peppers were the veggie accompaniments, made much better when dipped into any of the four interesting dipping sauces. I liked the jalapeño-soy and sweet miso while my comrade applied the chili-citrus to everything and dabbled with the wasabi remoulade.
Our second round of tempura was small, but we felt like we couldn’t leave without trying the shitake mushrooms and the scallops, both of which I ended up eating the majority.
My partner was underwhelmed by the ice creams—we chose chamomile, bay leaf, and black sesame. But I’ve never had a bad experience with ice cream.
An Expert Sandwich
I had an expertly made sandwich a few weeks ago on a jaunt in Brooklyn with a few equally enthusiastic epicureans. The sammy was made by Joe Caputo of Caputo’s fame, but my crew had so much of a say in what went into the mix that we decided we should take a little credit for the combination.
Start with a fluffy ciabatta flecked with bits of rosemary and made with a small portion of wheat flour along with the traditional white. Bread and fry an inch-thick slice of a breast of chicken. Allow it to cool and lay it onto the bottom half of your bread. Then, slice some fresh, preferably house-made mozzarella. Lay the slices on top of the chicken. Take some good quality, jarred sun-dried tomatoes, and cover the cheese with them, allowing for the jus from the jar to drip over everything. Cover the stack with the top piece of rosemary ciabatta and sliced it in two.
Eat one half now and save the other one for later.
Start with a fluffy ciabatta flecked with bits of rosemary and made with a small portion of wheat flour along with the traditional white. Bread and fry an inch-thick slice of a breast of chicken. Allow it to cool and lay it onto the bottom half of your bread. Then, slice some fresh, preferably house-made mozzarella. Lay the slices on top of the chicken. Take some good quality, jarred sun-dried tomatoes, and cover the cheese with them, allowing for the jus from the jar to drip over everything. Cover the stack with the top piece of rosemary ciabatta and sliced it in two.
Eat one half now and save the other one for later.
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