The Graham Ave. stop off the L is a heavily Italian neighborhood where homemade pasta on menus is a given. The new place, Motorino, was opened by neighborhood transplant, Mathieu Palombino, who has graced establishments such as BLT Fish and Bouley. He is a bona fide New York chef, not an F.O.B. Italian.
So after reluctantly skipping my customary, Sinatra-tinged pie place—just across the street from this newbie, I tried Motorino. Of course there is always a place in my heart for the neighbors, but for pizza heightened to an art, pizza that foodies will blog and fuss about, pizza found on New York Magazine best pie lists, head to Motorino for an anchovy pie with fior di latte and sprinkled with capers or a margherita DOC bubbly with buffalo mozzarella. It may not be an Italian hand kneading the dough, but he sure fits right in to the hood.
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