Kano-Yumma

At Kanoyama, the located-in-the-midst of-the-East-Village-yet-still-widely-unknown sushi spot, Japanese food aficionados are treated to an ideal meal. The space used to be Iso; however, when its sushi chef/owner was ready to leave, the staff of the previous version decided to take a stab at it themselves, not wanting to give up the little niche and devoted following they’d developed. They seem to be carrying the torch like naturals.

The décor is bare bones, feng shui, classic Japanese design. Currently, fresh cherry blossoms arch over most tables offering a sense of privacy in the packed, single room restaurant. Waitresses are knowledgeable and patient as you decide what to order—they know how many great options pile up between the stellar menu and the outstanding daily specials.

On a recent visit to Kanoyama with my grandmother and older brother, we were treated to a feast of fish flown in from Japan as well as freshly grated wasabi—something difficult to find, even in the finest sushi restaurants in town. The shrimp tempura roll was of standout quality and came loaded with kaiware, cucumber, and avocado. The ikura roll (salmon roe) was a favorite of my grandmother and mine. The 5/5 Go-Go Roll is an appetizer that comes from the sushi chef, which is made up of a bundle of julienned vegetables, bound together by a piece of juicy fluke and smeared with a ginger sauce. The five bundles disappeared quick from the plate at our table. Another special treat from the sushi chef is a fresh wasabi that can be ordered on demand. A small dish of the stuff is grated and then brought to the table—its flavor and texture are completely different than the usual variety and it offers a unique and more refined flavor to add to the sushi.

Specials like homemade tofu and fish flown in from the coasts of Japan are always items for which to watch. Eel and shira ebi (little white shrimp) are some of the highlights. The yellowtail neck, which comes grilled still on the thin sheet of bone and just sprinkled with a little salt is an adventurous dish that almost anyone will end up loving.

Be sure to arrive early or make an early reservation as the place fills up quickly, even on weekdays; however, more importantly, the earlier you’re there, the more variety of fish you’ll have.