Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Artichoke Attraction

I’ve been on a bit of an artichoke kick this week. After seeing they’d swapped out my asparagus quinoa salad at Raoul’s for an artichoke with said grain, I had to do a taste test (I loved that asparagus dish!). I was pleasantly surprised, being presented with a whole, perfectly steamed artichoke stuffed with arugula and roquettes. On the side was Raoul’s legendary vinaigrette and beneath the ‘choke was a subtle bed of quinoa.

It was a little difficult to adeptly eat, and perhaps it wasn’t the best thing to order on a first date. However, I enjoyed the intricacy of plucking off leaves, scooping quinoa from beneath, and forking a little salad from the middle all the same. There is always something a little childish about ordering a full artichoke—the idea of eating with your hands and eating a meal of one big, funny looking globe. Regardless of the mechanics of eating the dish, if you’re an artichoke purist, Raoul’s version is sure to please.

If you want something a little more favorable to date politesse, the fried ‘chokes at Mercat are one of my favorite things on the menu. You only have to cut them in half once with your fork to make them bite sized, but the fried consistency still makes them a little tough to eat. Luckily, you’ll be rewarded, as every fried bit consists of at least a quarter of the sumptuous heart.

Easiest to eat are the artichokes at Bar Jamon—a Gramercy niche I’d forgotten about until I was in the neighborhood for a concert a few weeks ago. A plate of grilled and then marinated morsels make for simple nibbling. The piquant marinade softens the vegetable into an altogether manageable mouthful. The platter is sprinkled liberally with pickled lemon rinds that pick up the dish. Cut into a heart, spear a piece of the lemon rind, and you’ve got an easy to eat, delicious bite of a sometimes-unruly vegetable. If you’re worried about date-etiquette eating, Bar Jamon might be the place to come if you’re in the mood for artichokes.

Or, if you want to hang in, artichokes are super easy to prepare, inexpensive, and a little romantic. Simply boil or steam them whole until tender—about fifteen minutes. Let them cool a little and serve them with something creamy for dipping. Try mixing some balsamic vinegar and mayonnaise together for a balsamic mayo sauce.

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