Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Turks & Frogs

Almost a year ago, I moved to an apartment about four blocks from the TriBeCa Turks & Frogs. When I moved, my new roommate suggested the spot to me as a delicious restaurant, great for nearly any occasion—dads and dates alike.

It was only a few weeks ago that I got around to checking it out with a dear friend of mine leaving for San Francisco the following week.

We sat at the bar and the waiter brought us a massive tray of cold appetizers—grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, black currants, smoked eggplant, tarama salatasi, and creamy hummus to name a few. All the choices looked delicious, but we chose the imam bayildi, a baby eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, garlic, pine nuts, and onions. Between that, the bread, and delicious olive oil that we’d been poured we nearly had a meal! The eggplant was tender and easily spread; the stuffing irresistible.

I’d ordered a glass of effervescent Riesling, which seemed to be the ideal accompaniment to the creamy eggplant.

To lighten things up a bit, we ordered the cucumber salad, which came packed with chopped tomatoes, doused in a light vinaigrette, and speckled with parsley and red onion.

For the main course, the swordfish skewers beckoned to us. One long rod, loaded with chunks of white meat, charred with onions, and green and red peppers, arrived on a bed of arugula. The dish was both filling and substantial, but it didn’t weigh us down.

Nothing on the menu is too expensive. Entrees range from only $16 to $23. Even still, it would be easy to make a meal solely out of the cold appetizers.

We weren’t rushed to leave the bar after we’d finished our meal so we stayed for another glass of wine. The atmosphere was calm despite the full tables surrounding us.

After our meal, we were both sad that we’d waited so long to try out the place; now that I like it so much I don’t know if I’ll be able to wait for her first Manhattan visit to return.

Lara Bars

Lara Bar, the all-natural energy bar brand that contains only a few ingredients per flavor, has added several new flavors.

The Dish team was a huge fan of the cinnamon roll, which contains only dates, walnuts, almonds, raisins, cashews, and plenty of cinnamon. We also adored the lemon bar, made with tangy concentrated lemon juice.

The bars are ideal if you are eating on the go or simply trying to cut back your sugar intake. The dates—a staple ingredient in all the bars—are naturally sweet enough; you’ll surely have your fix.

And, if you need more of a pick-me-up than just dried fruit, grab the chocolate mole bar, which, in addition to dates, contains cocoa powder and spicy chilies for a kick!

Himalayan Rock Salt

A few weeks ago, I ordered tuna sashimi at David Burke & Donatella. The menu mentioned something about Himalayan rock salt, and, because I love salty things, I was excited to order the dish. What I didn’t realize—and what was truly the exciting part of the appetizer—was that the sashimi, a few small pieces of tender tuna, was elevated on a massive block of rock salt. The huge pink slab served as a riser for the entire dish.

Rock salt is said to restore energy health, and chemical balance to the body; I was certainly energized when I saw the mass of pink.

Besides the exciting presentation, the block was useful, too. I rubbed the tuna into the salt block before each bite and the result was incredible. Apparently, Burke has purchased a large amount of Himalayan rock salt to have at his disposal.

After seeing it utilized so well with the sashimi, I look forward to seeing how else he will incorporate such a unique garnish!

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Lemonades

If alcohol is not a part of your summertime drinking line up, don’t fret—varieties on a classic summertime favorite will have you drunk with delight.

Lemonade should no longer be just Minute Maid. The Dish experienced some incredible ginger lemonade at Mojo Coffee and at Taim that has her making daily rounds for her fix.

Of course, ginger lemonade can be made at home. Make a lemonade base by squeezing lemons and adding simple syrup (water boiled with sugar) to taste. Next add ginger syrup, found at any grocery store.

The possibilities are endless for creative lemonade. Add grated cucumber for cucumber lemonade. It will go wonderfully with a cold chicken salad with cilantro and sesame dressing.

Boil stalks of lavender into your simple syrup concoction for lavender lemonade. Imagine how delicious the drink will be while sipping it on the porch, nibbling on scones and strawberries!

Mix equal parts cranberry juice and lemonade for a tart refresher that will compliment any summer pork dish, or perhaps simple Cuban sandwiches.

Le Pain Quotidien has mint lemonade that I crave when I wake up late at night and the air conditioner isn’t on. This one’s easy to make: simply mash some mint and sugar into the bottom of your glass before you pour in your lemonade!

Thai basil is another herbal addition that will enhance and elevate your lemons to stylish, dinner party status.

For flowery lemonade, brew a strong hibiscus tea. Once it’s cooled, add it to the ’ade. It’ll be a hit with duck salad or confit.

You can achieve slightly richer lemonade by adding a splash of cream like they do at Birdbath. Called “Farmers lemonade,” the cream cuts the bite of the lemons and makes for a more sophisticated summer drink.

Anyway you squeeze it; lemonade is surely the drink of the summer.

Zabaglione

All of this drinking and I’m getting a little peckish! Zabaglione, the creamy Italian dessert, goes with any of the beverages we’ve listed in this issue.

It’s simple to make as well. First, place 3 egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and 3 tablespoons of Marsala in a large pot. Beat the ingredients until they are frothy. Place the pot over medium heat and keep beating the mixture. Once the zabaglione is warm, remove it, but keep beating. When it’s cooled off slightly, return it to the flame and beat it until its warm again. You may do this a few times. It’s not hard, just a little tedious. You’ll know you are finished when the mixture is fluffy and thick.

Divide it amongst your guests and top it with berries of all sorts. Citrus-y lemonades or a gingery rum drink are both ideal compliments!

Dark and Stormy

The first Dark and Stormy I had was at Milk and Honey, the famed, hidden speak-easy in the Lower East Side. From the first sip of the refreshing elixir, I knew I was hooked. I went on to have them in many more establishments thereafter, most notably, Botanica, Balthazar and Little Giant.

A national drink of the always-hot Bermuda, a Dark and Stormy is the perfect summertime beverage. It consists of a shot or two of dark rum and a healthy pour of ginger beer. Finished with a twist of lime for a little zing, it’s ideal for a day by the pool or the beach.

Bermuda rum company Gosling’s Brothers Ltd has the trademark on Dark ‘n’ Stormy, but with little or no access to the special rum outside of the island, the thirst-quencher can surely be made with Bacardi, Mount Gay, or Captain Morgan’s for delicious results. For a true treat, add a little piece of candied ginger and sugar to the rim of your glass before serving.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

No Flame Preparations

Cool off this August by preparing your meals without any extra heat. Try new methods such as a cure, a ceviche, or a carpaccio. These techniques “cook” fish without overheating your kitchen. The no-cook cooking approach will make any summertime get together stress free by keeping everybody cool.

Cured salmon is always a popular addition to brunch, and you can impress your friends and family by doing it yourself! There are several methods of curing, but the more apartment-friendly one involves creating a cure--often a mixture of salt, sugar, dill, some citrus, and vodka. After rubbing your fish filet with the cure, wrap it in plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator with a weight on top of it. The amount of time until the fish is fully cooked varies, but it should normally take one to two days. Remove it from the plastic wrap thereafter, wipe away the excess cure mixture and slice. After you are done, impress your friends further with any number of dishes from finger foods to frittata!

If a cure isn’t your style, rustling up a ceviche is always a festive way to entertain in the summertime. A ceviche uses the acid in citrus juices and zests to cook the fish. Often found in Latin American cuisine, ceviche normally “cooks” pompano, snapper, or sole. However, you can also make a ceviche of salmon, tuna, or scallops. Chop your fish into small chunks. Marinate the chosen fish for about 20 minutes in a combination of citrus, and, most frequently, lime, salt, garlic, and chilies. When finished, we suggest creating a fish salad with mixed herbs such as cilantro, mint, onions and red bell pepper. Enjoy!

Our last cool-off summertime suggestion is carpaccio: a method of serving, thin slices of raw meat and fish. Normally a starter, it is served with an aioli sauce and a variety of accompaniments including mixed greens and other fresh vegetables. Stray away from tradition by preparing a carpaccio of other foods such as shrimp, octopus, venison, and elk. Or convert this starter into a dessert with fruit carpaccio!

Whichever method you choose, you’ll be out of the kitchen and enjoying the party in no time. And best of all, you won’t have a stove to clean or an oven to let cool.

Scallion Sauce

I had a piece of salmon sushi a few weeks ago that came topped with something identified simply as scallion sauce, and I was blown away by the intense flavor.

Sushi Seki, a longtime favorite of sushi connoisseurs, is a modest space on the Upper East Side that cranks out reliably topnotch creative and traditional sushi, and is home to the scallion sauce.

Served as a thin line of vibrant green sauce marked atop delicious salmon sushi, and served with a dime-size piece of fried kelp, I could eat this dish forever!

If you can’t eat salmon forever like me, get the omakase, which is laden with simple cuts of fish that wow patrons by their unadorned flavor as well as signature artistic pieces like the crunchy eel on a sliver of avocado.

Bon Chon Chicken

Explore a new kind of fried chicken and you’ll never return to KFC again! During a late night in Koreatown, a Dish assistant encountered Bon Chon, one of several Korean chicken restaurants popping up in the United States. When receiving her party’s order—the large special—she knew this was not your typical fried chicken.

Served in a smaller size (more comparable to American wings), this chicken had a thin, super-crispy crust and was seasoned with a zesty, soy garlic glaze. The chicken at Bon Chon is cooked to order, so it always comes out fresh.

The two-step frying technique is different than American fried chicken, and is what makes the chicken’s skin so thin and crisp. After the fry, the unseasoned chicken is lightly seasoned with a mixture of Asian spices. Since it is made fresh, be prepared to wait, but we can tell you you’ll be waiting for one tasty bird!

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

A Club Sandwich Survey

Manhattan is not exactly a country club friendly city. With limited space for golf courses and great lodge-esque clubhouses, the boathouse in Central Park is about the closest Manhattanites come to an afternoon at the club without leaving the city.

Luckily, the city is full of delicious clubhouse (or simply club) sandwiches. The Dish team took a week to dive into the most decadent double deckers around town.

To clarify, a proper club should have three slices of bread and be cut into four triangles. Held together by toothpicks, the bread should be toasted to help the loaded sandwich maintain composition. The traditional sammy is packed with bacon, turkey, lettuce, and tomato. However, the substitution of chicken or roast beef for the turkey is common, and cheese and mayo are frequent additions.

In typical Manhattan fashion, restaurateurs have thrown the club requirements out the window and incorporated ingredients like duck and lobster. And that’s not such a bad thing.

At the Bar @ Etats-Unis, there’s a lobster club served on white bread and tooth-picked.  Rosa Mexicano makes a pressed Mexican club with ham, grilled chicken, bacon, avocado and Chihuahua cheese with black bean-chipotle spread. ‘SNice revamped the dish to accommodate vegetarians. It’s made up of tofu, fakin’ bacon, and whole wheat bread. Blue Ribbon Bakery—as if I haven’t plugged them enough—has an irresistible duck club!

For more classic (but all cheese-inclusive) versions, Jerry’s club comes with ham, turkey, bacon, cheddar and swiss on sourdough. However, with no toothpick to hold the thing together, eating the hulky sandwich was nearly impossible.  Florent has a more manageable, tooth-picked and quartered classic, composed of smoked turkey, black forest ham, bacon, and swiss. JG Melon, though famous for their burger, also has a stellar turkey club. Lastly, the club at Grey Dog’s Coffee offered the most choice of meat and bread selections, though there were only two slices. Perhaps the tradition is lost in our city, but the clubs—if we can call them that—are still delicious.

T Salon

Miriam Novalle has spent a lifetime devoted to tea. She’s traveled far and wide researching the health benefits and the diversity of tea across the world. In her recently opened location in the Chelsea Market, customers can enjoy varieties of assam, darjeeling, ceylon, white, and green teas. They can drink pink fermented barley (not the tastiest, but perhaps the healthiest), and can add powder shots of açai and wheatgrass to their drinks.

Novalle prides herself on her selection of teas and elixirs. On any given day she’ll have more than a dozen from which to choose. Dish favorites include lemon earl grey and papaya.

If you’re in the mood for more than just a satisfying beverage, Novalle also has a variety of raw cuisine to accompany her teas.

Oshinko

A few weeks ago, I had a large platter of Japanese pickled vegetables, called oshinko, at Blue Ribbon Sushi. BRS seems to be a restaurant of which I cannot get enough, and now, oshinko is surely a dish that I’ll add to my must-have-every-time list. Daikon, burdock root, seaweed, and a myriad of other veggies make up the colorful array.

My favorite was the pickled Chinese cabbage, which was bright pink. Crunchy and bursting with flavor, the taste was such that it was a perfect accompaniment to a little sake.

Much to my delight, I discovered the store-bought version of oshinko at Sunrise Mart on Broome Street. It comes in an 8oz packet that can serve about six. I plan on serving them as hors d’oevres at my next dinner party. Supplementing with some cucumbers and salmon roe, the meal will surely be a hit!