Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Blaue Gans

Kurt Gutenbrenner is the long-time reigning king of Austrian cuisine in Manhattan. His empire ranges from the Upper East Side, where Café Sabarsky entices Neue Gallery patrons, to the West Village at Wallsé, his fine dining establishment for those looking to impress their in-laws or indulge in a divine brunch. I’ve always been a huge fan of both of these spots; always taking the opportunity to treat myself to his fine pastries and desserts.

When his Lower East Side spot, THOR, opened up with The Hotel on Rivington, I went within the first week. However, I’ve always forgotten to stop in at Blaue Gans, his airy Tribeca rendition.

When I finally went several weeks ago, I was reminded of Gutenbrenner’s expert skills with savory sausage and fresh fish. I sat at the bar with my copy editor and took in the atmosphere, which Gutenbrenner left intact from the location’s previous permutation, Le Zinc.

Blaue Gans has an exceptional wine list, featuring—of course—wines from Eastern Europe. When I last dined, I drank an outstanding Anton Bauer Berg Vineyard 2006 Riesling.

As far as food is concerned, don’t miss whichever seafood carpaccio appetizer he is featuring at the time. Also, be sure to try at least one of the featured house made sausages. The pork and veal sausage that comes with a pretzel and sweet mustard is outstanding.

Order at least one dish that comes with spaetzle—Gutenbrenner has the knobs of pasta down to a science. And of course, a meal is not complete without a dessert or four.

The salzburger nockerl is a meringue-like, airy puff of cream and eggs. It blankets a spread of fresh berries beneath that serve as an ethereal end to any meal. The one-bite chocolate lollipops (that come with a vanilla milkshake) are another no-fail finale. The mini vanilla milkshake is the perfect accompaniment to four miniature chocolate covered sponge cake-like biscuits.

Though I've yet to go to Austria, Gutenbrenner has certainly brought the rich and authentic cuisine back to me here in Manhattan!

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