At Kanoyama, the located-in-the-midst of-the-East-Village-yet-still-widely-unknown sushi spot, Japanese food aficionados are treated to an ideal meal. The space used to be Iso; however, when its sushi chef/owner was ready to leave, the staff of the previous version decided to take a stab at it themselves, not wanting to give up the little niche and devoted following they’d developed. They seem to be carrying the torch like naturals.
The décor is bare bones, feng shui, classic Japanese design. Currently, fresh cherry blossoms arch over most tables offering a sense of privacy in the packed, single room restaurant. Waitresses are knowledgeable and patient as you decide what to order—they know how many great options pile up between the stellar menu and the outstanding daily specials.
On a recent visit to Kanoyama with my grandmother and older brother, we were treated to a feast of fish flown in from Japan as well as freshly grated wasabi—something difficult to find, even in the finest sushi restaurants in town. The shrimp tempura roll was of standout quality and came loaded with kaiware, cucumber, and avocado. The ikura roll (salmon roe) was a favorite of my grandmother and mine. The 5/5 Go-Go Roll is an appetizer that comes from the sushi chef, which is made up of a bundle of julienned vegetables, bound together by a piece of juicy fluke and smeared with a ginger sauce. The five bundles disappeared quick from the plate at our table. Another special treat from the sushi chef is a fresh wasabi that can be ordered on demand. A small dish of the stuff is grated and then brought to the table—its flavor and texture are completely different than the usual variety and it offers a unique and more refined flavor to add to the sushi.
Specials like homemade tofu and fish flown in from the coasts of Japan are always items for which to watch. Eel and shira ebi (little white shrimp) are some of the highlights. The yellowtail neck, which comes grilled still on the thin sheet of bone and just sprinkled with a little salt is an adventurous dish that almost anyone will end up loving.
Be sure to arrive early or make an early reservation as the place fills up quickly, even on weekdays; however, more importantly, the earlier you’re there, the more variety of fish you’ll have.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
2 Scallops
If you happen to be in the West Village and have a craving for delicious scallops, consider stopping into Kingswood, the space that opened in the Jefferson space about a year ago. Sit at the bar and get lost in the line up of three meaty, melt-y sea scallop appetizer. They come perched on a bed of sunchokes, quinoa, and golden raisins with a splash of Meyer lemon and chamomile.
Almost directly across the water, in Greenpoint, there are also tasty scallops. So, if you’ll be dining in Brooklyn this evening, you can still have a scallop fix. At 68, two scallops come crusted in crispy yucca drizzled with a spicy, refreshing salsa verde.
The ambiance of both restaurants is sultry and simultaneously funky—a perfect backdrop for dining on sumptuous, sweet scallops.
Almost directly across the water, in Greenpoint, there are also tasty scallops. So, if you’ll be dining in Brooklyn this evening, you can still have a scallop fix. At 68, two scallops come crusted in crispy yucca drizzled with a spicy, refreshing salsa verde.
The ambiance of both restaurants is sultry and simultaneously funky—a perfect backdrop for dining on sumptuous, sweet scallops.
Freeman’s Old Fashioned
They might have an out-of-date name, but Old Fashioneds, made well, are always in style.
Old Fashioneds at Freeman’s are a reason to wade through the mob that has been clogging the alley that bears the same name since the restaurants’ opening several years ago. Old Fashioneds aren’t a signature cocktail of the bar; however, the bartender makes a perfect one. He dissolves a cube of sugar in a healthy shot of Bourbon in a rocks glass. He mixes in bitters and garnishes the beverage with a wide strip of orange rind, which serves as a swizzle. Between the expertly tailored drink, the speed at which the bar tender will make it for you and how easy it is to down one of these puppies, giving yourself a limit prior to taking your first sip is advised. The last time we saddled up at the bar, four rounds of Old Fashioneds had been drunk before we realized that we might need to slow down.
Old Fashioneds at Freeman’s are a reason to wade through the mob that has been clogging the alley that bears the same name since the restaurants’ opening several years ago. Old Fashioneds aren’t a signature cocktail of the bar; however, the bartender makes a perfect one. He dissolves a cube of sugar in a healthy shot of Bourbon in a rocks glass. He mixes in bitters and garnishes the beverage with a wide strip of orange rind, which serves as a swizzle. Between the expertly tailored drink, the speed at which the bar tender will make it for you and how easy it is to down one of these puppies, giving yourself a limit prior to taking your first sip is advised. The last time we saddled up at the bar, four rounds of Old Fashioneds had been drunk before we realized that we might need to slow down.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Hunkering Down at Smith’s
When the mastermind’s behind two of my favorite restaurants in Manhattan teamed up, I could only imagine what they’d stir up together in the kitchen. Smith’s, the resulting union between Danny Abrams of Mermaid Inn and Cindy Smith of Raoul’s is a delicious take on seasonal cuisine. Everything about the restaurant from décor to dish makes the most sense when you know who is behind it.
From Danny, details like the pistachio-colored walls and a breezy, café-esque vibe put diners at ease. From Cindy, notes like the black leather banquettes, the mirrored ceiling, and the hidden velvet bar in the back hark a sultry, clandestine evening.
Food-wise, Abrams is probably the one who brings the Charred Cape Cod Baby Squid, served with lemon confit, olives, and pancetta. Thanks to his influence, you may also enjoy Grilled Dorade or Line Caught Wild Striped Bass. A Steamed Egg served with creamy polenta and Portuguese Sardines crusted in Parmigiano Reggiano, served on a foundation of tomato confit seemed more Raoul’s-style. Smith may have also had something to do with the Rib-Eye Steak, served with a bone marrow gravy.
Whoever is responsible for the Homemade Corzetti served with thick cut mushrooms and bathed in a walnut puree is either a genius or trying to kill us. The side portion of pasta was so rich that between two people, we could not bring ourselves to take the last bite, not matter how delicious it was, which it was.
To end things on a light note, we tried the Meyer Lemon Tart, which served as an ideal finish to the hearty meal. Other options that tempted were the Warm Apple Cake with ginger ice cream and caramel as well as the Hot Chocolate accompanied by a plate of cookies.
I didn’t feel so full exactly but certainly was aware of the richness involved with each dish, much like how I feel after an evening at Raoul’s. The food is decadent but doesn’t slow you down. More, it’ll get you in the mood to walk back to the bar and sample one of the Smith-crafted cocktails like their signature drink made with Bulleit bouron, maple syrup, and lemon. Unfortunately, when you finish your meal, the bar will most likely be packed to capacity. Something both Smith and Abrams have also brought with them is hype.
From Danny, details like the pistachio-colored walls and a breezy, café-esque vibe put diners at ease. From Cindy, notes like the black leather banquettes, the mirrored ceiling, and the hidden velvet bar in the back hark a sultry, clandestine evening.
Food-wise, Abrams is probably the one who brings the Charred Cape Cod Baby Squid, served with lemon confit, olives, and pancetta. Thanks to his influence, you may also enjoy Grilled Dorade or Line Caught Wild Striped Bass. A Steamed Egg served with creamy polenta and Portuguese Sardines crusted in Parmigiano Reggiano, served on a foundation of tomato confit seemed more Raoul’s-style. Smith may have also had something to do with the Rib-Eye Steak, served with a bone marrow gravy.
Whoever is responsible for the Homemade Corzetti served with thick cut mushrooms and bathed in a walnut puree is either a genius or trying to kill us. The side portion of pasta was so rich that between two people, we could not bring ourselves to take the last bite, not matter how delicious it was, which it was.
To end things on a light note, we tried the Meyer Lemon Tart, which served as an ideal finish to the hearty meal. Other options that tempted were the Warm Apple Cake with ginger ice cream and caramel as well as the Hot Chocolate accompanied by a plate of cookies.
I didn’t feel so full exactly but certainly was aware of the richness involved with each dish, much like how I feel after an evening at Raoul’s. The food is decadent but doesn’t slow you down. More, it’ll get you in the mood to walk back to the bar and sample one of the Smith-crafted cocktails like their signature drink made with Bulleit bouron, maple syrup, and lemon. Unfortunately, when you finish your meal, the bar will most likely be packed to capacity. Something both Smith and Abrams have also brought with them is hype.
Crawfish
I went to my first crawfish boil a few weeks back. It was in honor of a little boy’s first birthday and, while his memories of it may turn out to be foggy, I think the guests will remember this celebration for a long time to come.
His dad grew up in Louisiana and, since moving to New York, discovered an online source for overnight shipping of live crawfish for when the craving strikes. He borrowed a commercial sized stockpot and set up shop in the back yard, dumping the live crustaceans into a broth of zesty Cajun spices.
Batch after batch of crawfish was served up all afternoon long with corn and potatoes that had stewed in the jus as well so as to develop the specific flavor of the boil. Subsequent batches got spicier and spicier as they stewed for longer. Yum!
His dad grew up in Louisiana and, since moving to New York, discovered an online source for overnight shipping of live crawfish for when the craving strikes. He borrowed a commercial sized stockpot and set up shop in the back yard, dumping the live crustaceans into a broth of zesty Cajun spices.
Batch after batch of crawfish was served up all afternoon long with corn and potatoes that had stewed in the jus as well so as to develop the specific flavor of the boil. Subsequent batches got spicier and spicier as they stewed for longer. Yum!
Squid Three Ways
Squid’s been showing up on my meal ticket quite often lately. Besides the squid I had recently at Smith’s (delicious!), I’ve enjoyed it prepared very differently at a few other places as well. At Surf Bar, an aquatic themed restaurant where the dining room floor is covered in sand. There, it’s served in a red basket with a little dipping sauce and truly does evoke being seaside. Later in the week, I was at a friend’s house and savored them stuffed with quinoa and golden raisins. The following day, I noticed that one of the fish stands in the Union Square Greenmarket had fresh squid for sale. Having had my fill for a while, I opted not to purchase a portion, but am glad to know that if the craving hits, I’ll be able to experiment with my own.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Dishes to Relish
There are many items on the menu at the Williamsburg stand-by, Relish, that I could eat everyday. The Tuna au Poivre served with grilled vegetables is always ever so slightly seared to a satisfying pink and accompanied by a charred medley of eggplant, fennel, and zucchini. The plate is drizzled with a rich but not heavy brown pepper sauce that never ends up leaving a single trace of existence after I’m finished eating. There’s the simple salad, which manages to awe, even though it is composed of the barest of components: greens, tomatoes, and a light vinaigrette. I start thinking about the Calamari a few days before I saddle up in one of the booths and find myself contemplating a return visit only a day or two after I’ve indulged. Cornmeal-crusted and served with a spicy, chunky tomato sauce, the appetizer comes with enough ringlets that it could easily make an entrée for most patrons.
But what I love most at Relish is something that I could not eat everyday. The onion rings, served in a shallow bowl as a side, appear in my dreams. I wake up salivating, thinking about them, even if I haven’t had them in weeks. They are cut thick and dipped in a spiced flour blend before getting dunked in the deep fryer. They arrive to the table piping hot in a shallow bowl, beckoning for everyone at the table to grab one fast. They are oily and slippery: just as they should be. Like the souped up diner décor, this is the most accurate culinary reflection of the theme, so to speak. This is diner food done with an awareness of the essence of the dish brought to the front and center of the experience. Imagining the perfect diner onion ring is fully realized in Relish’s version. A greasy, messy pile of crispy, fried batter encasing a slimy, oil-shocked onion is everything it should be in this rendition.
And that is why I dream about them. These are the onion rings of your wildest dreams. And so, to know that when I am craving something like this, I can find exactly it, my mouth waters with the thought of it.
I can’t eat them everyday, as the onion rings of a wild dream are no doubt heavy undertakings; however, every few weeks, when the timing is right, I’ll plunk down in the corner booth and peer out over a tower of bliss with a dreamy smile.
But what I love most at Relish is something that I could not eat everyday. The onion rings, served in a shallow bowl as a side, appear in my dreams. I wake up salivating, thinking about them, even if I haven’t had them in weeks. They are cut thick and dipped in a spiced flour blend before getting dunked in the deep fryer. They arrive to the table piping hot in a shallow bowl, beckoning for everyone at the table to grab one fast. They are oily and slippery: just as they should be. Like the souped up diner décor, this is the most accurate culinary reflection of the theme, so to speak. This is diner food done with an awareness of the essence of the dish brought to the front and center of the experience. Imagining the perfect diner onion ring is fully realized in Relish’s version. A greasy, messy pile of crispy, fried batter encasing a slimy, oil-shocked onion is everything it should be in this rendition.
And that is why I dream about them. These are the onion rings of your wildest dreams. And so, to know that when I am craving something like this, I can find exactly it, my mouth waters with the thought of it.
I can’t eat them everyday, as the onion rings of a wild dream are no doubt heavy undertakings; however, every few weeks, when the timing is right, I’ll plunk down in the corner booth and peer out over a tower of bliss with a dreamy smile.
Superfine
Superfine sugar is a recent discovery of mine. I accidentally bought it thinking it was powdered, and what I ended up with was a shortcut in baking delicious treats. Superfine sugar is, as the name suggests, a tiny granule of sugar. They dissolve more easily than the larger crystals in cold and hot liquids. They also make for a more finely textured dough or batter, which can often be the difference between a good cookie and a great one.
I used it most recently in the airplane and car shaped rolled sugar cookies, which received rave reviews from those who had a chance to taste test them. The bakers in the bunch commented on their smooth consistency.
Superfine sugar is also great to use for mixing drinks, from iced coffee to bar drinks that call for simple syrup or sugar.
I used it most recently in the airplane and car shaped rolled sugar cookies, which received rave reviews from those who had a chance to taste test them. The bakers in the bunch commented on their smooth consistency.
Superfine sugar is also great to use for mixing drinks, from iced coffee to bar drinks that call for simple syrup or sugar.
Making Impressive & Easy Sugar Cookies
This is the easiest and most impressive recipe for rolled sugar cookies. Get any shape cookie cutter you’d like, make this dough and you’re contribution to a potluck or a child’s birthday will certainly be lauded. I recently made them in airplanes and cars.
½ cup butter, softened
2/3 cup superfine sugar
1 plus 1 tablespoon egg
¼ teaspoon vanilla
1 2/3 cups flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1.Cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs and vanilla. Mix together and then in the flour, baking soda, and salt.
2.Chill for an hour; then preheat oven to 400º.
3.Roll out the dough on floured surface. Cut into shapes and bake 7 minutes.
½ cup butter, softened
2/3 cup superfine sugar
1 plus 1 tablespoon egg
¼ teaspoon vanilla
1 2/3 cups flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1.Cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs and vanilla. Mix together and then in the flour, baking soda, and salt.
2.Chill for an hour; then preheat oven to 400º.
3.Roll out the dough on floured surface. Cut into shapes and bake 7 minutes.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Restaurant Perfect
Along a tree-lined block in Manhattan, twenty or thirty people are having the best meal of their lives. The lighting sets a warm glow that sparks a mood of intimacy, inspiring romance and epiphanies alike. There is never a line or a wait to be seated, and there is no pretense at the door. Diners are greeted with genuine, heart-felt smiles that make any and everyone feel at home. The service here makes your senile grandmother feel like she is young and remembers everything; it makes your catty college friend who works in PR forget about her blackberry and start talking in a normal pitched voice.
The menu truly offers up something for everyone. Hearty fare and light dishes mingle with each other throughout. However, if you don’t see something that calls to you, there won’t be a problem. Your waiter will gladly make any changes or substitutions. Want your tuna made the way the chef has chosen to prepare the pork? Alright. Prefer splitting an entrée as your appetizer and then going for a few appetizers as your main? The staff won’t be thrown off in the least.
They also won’t hover or rush you. But they will refill your water glass just when you start to run a little too low. They are by your side if you think of something you need and they are invisible if your focus is fixed on your dining partner. You can linger as long as you’d like or dash in for a quick dinner one-two-three. Prices aren’t high, and neither is the noise level. The chef comes out each night and greets his patrons. His food is delicious. You’ll clean every plate but you won’t feel full or weighed down. You’ll want to go dancing or take a walk; the food leaves you elated. The wine list prices bottles at cost, or you can bring your own bottle if there isn’t one you like or want to try.
The chef sends everyone home with a complimentary muffin or brioche for the morning to remind you of your sweet evening. The perfection of the evening doesn’t translate into an event or a culinary outing; it simply rests in the realm of a good, comfortable, satisfying time. The restaurant has declined any honors and mentions in culinary circles so as to maintain the specialness of the experience. It’s almost impossible to imagine that a place like this exists in our city, and even after visiting, you’ll feel like it’s been a dream.
The menu truly offers up something for everyone. Hearty fare and light dishes mingle with each other throughout. However, if you don’t see something that calls to you, there won’t be a problem. Your waiter will gladly make any changes or substitutions. Want your tuna made the way the chef has chosen to prepare the pork? Alright. Prefer splitting an entrée as your appetizer and then going for a few appetizers as your main? The staff won’t be thrown off in the least.
They also won’t hover or rush you. But they will refill your water glass just when you start to run a little too low. They are by your side if you think of something you need and they are invisible if your focus is fixed on your dining partner. You can linger as long as you’d like or dash in for a quick dinner one-two-three. Prices aren’t high, and neither is the noise level. The chef comes out each night and greets his patrons. His food is delicious. You’ll clean every plate but you won’t feel full or weighed down. You’ll want to go dancing or take a walk; the food leaves you elated. The wine list prices bottles at cost, or you can bring your own bottle if there isn’t one you like or want to try.
The chef sends everyone home with a complimentary muffin or brioche for the morning to remind you of your sweet evening. The perfection of the evening doesn’t translate into an event or a culinary outing; it simply rests in the realm of a good, comfortable, satisfying time. The restaurant has declined any honors and mentions in culinary circles so as to maintain the specialness of the experience. It’s almost impossible to imagine that a place like this exists in our city, and even after visiting, you’ll feel like it’s been a dream.
Spam Hits NY
Forget Niman Ranch pork and Hudson Vally foie gras, chef’s newest addiction in Spam. That’s right; it’s appearing on menus across the city. In the past week, Dish detectives have spotted spam and truffle omelets on a brunch menu at an expensive uptown Sunday go-to. We’ve seen pats of it served as an appetizer with a smear of black mission fig jam and toasted slivered almonds.
The best preparation we’ve encountered so far was a reinterpreted Cumin-spiced Spam, in which a rogue genius chef in the kitchen has chosen to serve over lentils, Cara Cara oranges, parsley, and crème fraiche. We haven’t yet sampled the Spam sorbet that’s sitting in our test laboratory, but consumer reports are looking good. “Cold or hot, Spam hits the spot!”
The best preparation we’ve encountered so far was a reinterpreted Cumin-spiced Spam, in which a rogue genius chef in the kitchen has chosen to serve over lentils, Cara Cara oranges, parsley, and crème fraiche. We haven’t yet sampled the Spam sorbet that’s sitting in our test laboratory, but consumer reports are looking good. “Cold or hot, Spam hits the spot!”
Chang Gets Knighted!
Last week David Chang, the chef extraordinaire who has made his name with his East Village Empire of Momofukus, was knighted. He is the first celebrity chef to be awarded with the title, following in the footsteps of legends such as Elton John, Bono, and Mick Jagger. With the onslaught of good press and worship that began in the lower Manhattan neighborhood and that has radiated out, extending across America, this seemed like the next natural step for Chang.
He has been lauded as the recipient of the James Beard Award, honored as a Best New Chef in Food & Wine, and named Chef of the Year by Bon Appetit.
In Buckingham Palace, the Queen, hearing about the renowned Bo Ssam, asked Chang to prepare the dish of pork butt, oysters, and kimchi after the knighting ceremony. Unfortunately, she hadn’t reserved it 24 hours prior, and, as Chang explained, “those are the rules your highness.”
He has been lauded as the recipient of the James Beard Award, honored as a Best New Chef in Food & Wine, and named Chef of the Year by Bon Appetit.
In Buckingham Palace, the Queen, hearing about the renowned Bo Ssam, asked Chang to prepare the dish of pork butt, oysters, and kimchi after the knighting ceremony. Unfortunately, she hadn’t reserved it 24 hours prior, and, as Chang explained, “those are the rules your highness.”
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