Canned Toro

I recently had lunch in the West Village with an old friend. We each ordered tuna: one on a sandwich, the other on a salad. Simple as our lunches were, they were each the epitome of what we wanted. And, it was because of the superlative tuna.

Certainly, this tuna came from a can, but it was not that crumbly, smelly Bumble Bee tuna that everyone grew up with. It was smooth and pure instead of chewy and processed.

The sandwich got me thinking about how much I love canned tuna. I even liked it when I got it in my lunch box, and it stunk up the cafeteria. Now, I wouldn’t subject my clients and associates to that fourth-grade smell in the office, but fortunately, I’ve found tuna much less stinky in subsequent years.

If you aren’t sold on the idea that canned tuna can taste delicious, try Ortiz Bonito del Norte. It is a Spanish tuna packed in olive oil. The tuna is yellowtail ventresca, which means it comes from the belly of the yellowtail. That’s right, it’s a can of toro, as it’s become so well known in Japanese cuisine. Ortiz comes in a red and gold box (with a can inside of the box) and is available quite widely. Russ & Daughters, Gourmet Garage, and Whole Foods carry in on a regular basis for about $11 for 6-8 ounces.

In a chat with some tuna aficionados, I learned that Ortiz is not the only specialty tuna available in the USA. Zoe Diva is another Spanish import available at gourmet grocers. There is also a brand called Tre Torri Ventresca Di Tonno that retails for $32 for 11 ounces. A little decadent: yes. But imagine what a star you’d be if you brought a can of it to a picnic!

People have such strong feelings for canned tuna; you either love it or you hate it. But loathers, be wary: my lunch last week made me realize that if we were all eating ventresca tuna melts in the cafeteria, no one would be getting picked on.