Soto

Live lobster sashimi and surprisingly sweet ikura are remarkable at Soto. I could say that either one was the best bite I’ve had all year. So to eat them both in one fell swoop made for an unforgettable meal.

There was a torrential rainstorm on the night that my party dined. Coming to Soto was a serene escape with its sleek, vibrant design and calming atmosphere. The food was much like the atmosphere: simultaneously invigorating and soothing.

The live lobster that wowed me was marinated in ginger and soy, and topped with yuzu kimizu–a citrus-y Japanese hollandaise—and osetra caviar. The texture of the fish was refreshing, and the caviar luxurious. The ikura (just a simple piece of sushi) was the sweetest I’ve had. In addition, the briny, metallic taste so often detected in salmon roe was absent.

However, those weren’t the only standouts on the menu for me. The special sushi roll of the day (the tuna tartare roll) packed with chopped tuna, avocado, burdock, shiso, and spicy sauce was wrapped in white seaweed and delicious. The shima aji carpaccio, twelve thin slices of tuna, was drizzled with ginger-truffle soy sauce for a delicate delight. Both the salmon citrus and the Scottish salmon dishes were spectacular, and very different. The citrus version, with scallion, cilantro, and sudachi jus was the enlivening dish, while the Scottish counterpart had a gentle, comforting taste. Langoustine and cooked lobster made memorable appearances on the menu (and on our plates) as well, combining sweet and savory flavors like shiitake and mango.

Hailing from Atlanta, Sotohiro Kosugi seems to have brought his fan-base with him. Devoted followers are crowding the sushi bar for the flawless slivers of impeccable fish.

Located on a busy, messy strip of Sixth Avenue, the site of this new sushi destination is Soto’s only misstep. Nonetheless, you won’t regret walking in through the windy wooden and rock entrance where you’ll be transported into Sotohiro’s immaculate, crustaceous world.