Yerba es Buena

A recent dinner at the six month old Yerba Buena is the East Village packed the punch with an outstanding cocktail program, bold flavors in each dish, and charm to boot.  There were slip ups but the food shone through.  Each plate embodied a wonderful blend of savory and sweet, making each bite an outstanding experience on its own.  The down sides of the evening - a clamorous crowd and an accident-prone waitstaff - were circumstantial (two tables of ten setting off the kitchen and service flow).

We started the night off with a cocktail - the poquito picante.  Gin, jalapeño, cilantro, cucumber, cointreau, and lemon juice made for an explosion of freshness.  The cucumber was cool; the jalapeño added kick.  The cocktails at Yerba Buena get a boost from famed mixologists Dale DeGraff, Sasha Petraske, and Audrey Saunders - all have lent their hands in a drink or two.  

As we moved from the bar to our seats, it seemed like we switched restaurants.  While the bar area has a distinctly lets go for drinks vibe, but the dining rooms is a much more serious occasion.

We ordered two nibbles, two larger apps and one main course.  We started with guacomole and potato mushroom croquettes.  Well, sort of.  Our waiter decided to bring all four of our appetizers (we were two people) out at once instead of bringing the guac and the croquettes out first - weird & annoying.  In retrospect we should have just sent back the two larger apps until we were ready.  Instead we were left with a table too small to hold the food and for us to comfortably eat simultaneously. Still, the food was wonderful and so I tried to put the annoyance behind me. This happened after a busser had poured a pitcher of water on my lap. So one might assume I was a little on edge from the get-go.

Guacamole - made with chipotle peppers - was outstanding, if a little pricey.  Papa Rellena - four fried balls of potato and mushroom - could have been more mushroom enhanced, but still were a wonderful decadent mouthful.  The Yerba Buena Salad was superb - a nice mix of textures and flavors.  Our favorite appetizer was the calamari.  Encrusted with blue cornmeal, it had a different texture than typical fried squid.  It was also dressed with a sweet, tamarind vinaigrette making for an exotic rendition of a typical engagement.

The tour de force of the meal was the Moqueca "Brazilian Paella".  Shrimp, clams, cod and crawfish surrounded a mound of piping hot green rice in a terra cotta dish.  Stewed in coconut milk, the fish was rich and sweet.  We ordered some heart of palm fries (yum! great idea!) and sweet plantains (how'd they get them so gooey and caramelized in such big chunks?) to go along side the behemoth paella.  We somehow managed to finish the entire plate (definitely something to split) but at that point had to give up on dessert.

Yerba Buena is an excellent spot to take a date.  It's got an atmosphere that mixes frivolity and seriousness; it's food is seductive and good for sharing and it's cocktail list is irresistible.

Yerba Buena

23 Avenue A

212.529.2919