Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Amora
Amora is smooth mustard with a tangy taste that works on anything from turkey sandwiches to a star ingredient in a punchy salad dressing. I like it on rye toasts with a piece of salami (or, something a little fancier like soppressata).
While the mustard is only available abroad, it is simple to find, so next time you hop on a plane, try to stock up!
Might go wonderfully on some left over Christmas roasts…
Duck Carbonara
This fact became painfully obvious after about my third day as a guest of the young couple with whom I was staying. Foie gras toasts as a snack before dinner were not a luxury as much as a repeat offender; duck fat replacing butter to fry onions was commonplace.
I’ll admit that a week was a little heavy for me (don’t forget all those croissants in the morning and the wine we were drinking continuously starting only hours after our first espressos of the day). However, I did snag one very fun recipe. It’s a very simple French-style pasta carbonara with a little twist. Instead of using pancetta, proscuitto, or bacon, use duck proscuitto.
1. Boil spaghetti in well-salted water.
2. Sautee onions and garlic with ample oil until they are very soft.
3. Chop the duck into bits. Add it to the onions.
4. Drain the pasta and mix into the onion mixture.
5. Stir in about a half-cup of crème fraiche. Season with salt and lots of pepper.
6. Crack an egg over the pasta, stir, and serve immediately.
The duck makes for fantastic flavor and also turns the incredibly basic dish into a gourmet delight. By substituting the fancy duck, you could easily serve the carbonara at a dinner party to a standing ovation.
To really go the extra mile, imagine sautéing the onions and garlic in duck fat, and using both the duck proscuitto and then a roasted duck breast, and serving it sliced, atop the warm, sticky pasta.
White Christmas
I spiced the pears with cinnamon instead of cardamom pods. For the mousse, I used vanilla extract instead of a true vanilla bean. These two modifications made the recipe much less intimidating for me and the result was still extraordinary.
Better yet, you can prepare the components in advance and assemble them á la minute. The final presentation calls for white chocolate curls, but if this seems daunting, just sprinkle some cinnamon atop the pillowy mousse for garnish.
An easy and exciting treat for a white Christmas!
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Hill Country for Christmas
Their per-pound ordering policy makes the hill’ an ideal place if you aren’t sure how many people you’ll end up feeding. When neighbors and friends start calling, you won’t have to turn anyone away.
The moist brisket and the whole roasted chicken are not to be missed. Also, inquiring about meat specials has been a no-fail option during my visits. If you are taking the meal to go, then you can toast the white bread that comes with the meats. I know it isn’t traditional—and that many Texans reading this will put out a warrant for me—but it really makes a better sammy when the bread’s toasted.
Potato Bourbon Mash (very festive, hey?!) and the Beer Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans. I’d also dive into a full 32 oz. portion of the Cool as a Cucumber Salad as a means for cutting the fat and for transitioning between meats and courses. Skillet Cornbread here is standard but sort of a necessity in my opinion. Desserts are not a strong point, but you will probably be too full to eat dessert in any event. If you must have something sweet, the Bourbon Pecan Pie is the best choice. Plus, if there are extra sweet potatoes, you can pile them on top, which is what I did. It’s great! —Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.
If you are carrying out or having delivery, be sure to call a day ahead because a Country Christmas Eve is sure to be a popular proposal this year. And, if you are going to be dining in your home, definitely get extras because this cuisine makes excellent leftovers. Nearly everything gets better on the second day, namely the beans. If there is extra corn bread, make bread pudding with it. Whether you’re ripping open presents or enjoying a quiet day: Happy Holidays!
Dolce Italiano
I started with a difficult but extremely satisfying cranberry tart for Thanksgiving that Florence Fabricant wrote about in the Times; then I tested the pine nut brittle, which was exceptional—especially when plunged into vanilla ice cream. The citrus glazed polenta cake is better than the picture makes it out to be.
The cookbook is incredibly informative with excellent instructions. I especially like the ten Italian ingredients you should know section, which masks as informational, when in reality it’s a list of ingredients that are just plain ADDICTIVE!
Quick Entertaining Chocolate Soufflés
deliciously fun evening. This is, without a doubt, the easiest, quickest, and most satisfying mix I have come across. All one needs is butter and water to combine with the prepackaged mix and chocolate chips. Within only fifteen minutes of bake time, anyone can have extremely impressive looking ramekins of freshly baked soufflés.
The hostess and I quickly baked off a few for the guests and the typical gathering of friends became an evening to remember.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Champagne
The effect is a lovely champagne waterfall and it really is an efficient way of pouring your bubbly. The flutes of my affection are Zoe-Stanton-designed and dubbed The Fairshare Fountain. Champagne for everyone!
Quinoa Cakes
I found the cakes in the pre-packed, refrigerated section of the prepared foods section—my selection did not look so good. But it was very inexpensive—something like $2.85 for two cakes. One I heated in the microwave and it turned out to be a mushy version of a good veggie burger. The second, I heated in a fry pan, which was a much better option, as it crisped up the whole thing.
I wasn’t completely satisfied though and I wanted to try to make my own. After reviewing the Whole Foods ingredients and searching online for quinoa cake recipes, I came up with this recipe. The recipe is a base and many spices and herbs can and should be added to personalize the healthy patties!
{ingredients}
1 cup cooked quinoa
1 egg
2 tbsps oil
¼ cup spinach
¼ cup carrots
¼ cup onion
¼ cup zucchini
1 tbsp tahini
1 tbsp yogurt
¼ cup wheat flour
½ cup baking powder
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper.
{directions}
1.Take one cup of cooked quinoa and mix in one beaten egg.
2. Chop the veggies and sauté them in 1 tbsp oil. Add chopped, sautéed spinach, carrots, onion, and zucchini to quinoa and egg.
3.Add tahini and yogurt.
4.Add wheat flour, baking powder, and lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste.
5.Be sure it’s well mixed. Heat up remaining oil in fry pan.
6.Form the cakes out of the mash and cook them until they are golden brown--about 4 minutes per side.
Voilá! – quinoa cakes of your own!
Maccarone Masterpieces
The ten-inch, one pound Santa molds feature the Father Christmas holding a tree and bell and go for $100. It may seem steep, but considering that the edible art was on display at Art Basel Miami over the weekend, this could be the art deal of the century.
Plus, for the epicurean art patrons, this Saint Nick is made with pure Guittard semi-sweet dark chocolate. Production is overseen by author and chocolatier Paul Greweling to be sure that the creative process doesn’t hinder the taste of the piece.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Swingle
Deal with the cantankerous attitudes of the staff that works Steve’s on a deserted pier in Red Hook as they pretend that serving customers and doing business is the worst possible thing to happen to them all day and be rewarded with the best key lime pie and the even better invention of the frozen, choco-dipped variety at this strange little alcove.
Steve is extremely particular about his key limes, and therein lies the difference. It is a traditional summertime item, but with winter upon us, everyone could use a little sunshine—even the Steve-minions may secretly be craving it.
BarFry
My buddy with whom I ate is an excellent dining partner, as he’s never afraid to try the weird things and likes to order in rounds of food. After perusing of the menu and being informed of a wide array of specials, we choose a varied first round of food.
Cape Cod fluke sashimi with a chive-based dressing covering it was a light and refreshing way to dive into a fry-laden meal. Eight pieces of thick white fish went down easily—and too fast in my opinion, as I thought it was a highlight of the meal.
Our oyster po’boy arrived with oysters oozing out every which way of the sandwich, which itself was too burdensome for me to eat without deconstructing it. My guest had no problem; however, and no part went to waste save the bread from my half, which was too large and too hard for me to eat with the gooey bivalves.
A selection of fried items finished our first set of food. Shrimp tempura was my choice; chicken fried steak was my buddy’s. And we preferred our choices, respectively. Tempura pumpkin and shisito peppers were the veggie accompaniments, made much better when dipped into any of the four interesting dipping sauces. I liked the jalapeño-soy and sweet miso while my comrade applied the chili-citrus to everything and dabbled with the wasabi remoulade.
Our second round of tempura was small, but we felt like we couldn’t leave without trying the shitake mushrooms and the scallops, both of which I ended up eating the majority.
My partner was underwhelmed by the ice creams—we chose chamomile, bay leaf, and black sesame. But I’ve never had a bad experience with ice cream.
An Expert Sandwich
Start with a fluffy ciabatta flecked with bits of rosemary and made with a small portion of wheat flour along with the traditional white. Bread and fry an inch-thick slice of a breast of chicken. Allow it to cool and lay it onto the bottom half of your bread. Then, slice some fresh, preferably house-made mozzarella. Lay the slices on top of the chicken. Take some good quality, jarred sun-dried tomatoes, and cover the cheese with them, allowing for the jus from the jar to drip over everything. Cover the stack with the top piece of rosemary ciabatta and sliced it in two.
Eat one half now and save the other one for later.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Paromi Tea
Back, Oolong, Green, Rooibos, and Yerba Maté are all rendered in such a way that preserves their redeeming vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Coconut Almond, Cinnamon Chai, and Pineapple Papaya all have bits of fruit, spice, herbs, and flowers laced throughout.
The packaging is as unique and sacred as the tea leaves inside. The amber glass jar is 100% recyclable and protects the tea from UV rays that dilute the flavor. The sachets are biodegradable.
Savory Sapore
A few weeks ago, we went to a favorite pasta joint of his, Sapore on Greenwich Avenue. The place is unassuming to say the least. Across from the glitzy and ever-packed Gusto, also known for its mouthwatering Italian, Sapore could be easily missed. Of course, the two are very different types of restaurants. While Gusto offers not only delicious food but also an ambience that would put a princess at ease, Sapore gets straight to the point with the food and relies on the smiles and kindness of the staff to create a pleasant environment. And, that it does, extremely well.
When I arrived with my brother on a Saturday night around nine, there was a wait for one of the fifteen or so tables. The manager apologized for the wait and offered us a gratis glass of wine to get the evening started. We were ravenous and the generosity took off the edge.
We watched steaming bowls of fusilli ai formaggi, spaghetti con polpettine, and rigatoni melanzane arrive at tables before we were seated at ours fifteen minutes later.
We asked for an order of bruschetta, but the waiter brought two instead, explaining that one was on the house for having to wait. The dish was superb: dark grilled bread topped with chopped cherry tomatoes, onions, oregano, basil, and garlic olive oil to add a kick. We were both very happy that the waiter had bought us an extra order.
We were carb-loading for the marathon the following day so we each ordered a portion of the penne sapore. Our mother used to make penne more than any other pasta and we keep a spot for it in our hearts. This penne came with fresh tomatoes, grilled onions, zucchini medallions, and basil, topped with ricotta salata. The pasta was cooked just a minute beyond al dente (how I like it) and the veggies were a great blend of fresh and cooked.
All in all, Sapore provided an unfussy but completely gourmet meal that I would have never discovered without the help of my brother.
Frankies 457 Pine Nut Meatballs
If you, too, have not ventured to this charming restaurant in the three years it’s been in business, it is definitely time to go. No matter that there is a garden at the Brooklyn branch perfect for summertime dining—the reason to go is the meatball parmigiana sandwich. This is winter food. Fluffy, gourmet meatballs made with pine nuts, parsley, and cracked pepper are mashed between a sliced piece of Sullivan Street Bakery’s pizza Bianca bread. At $9, no one can deny its value: the proprietors—both named Frank—could charge double and it’d still be a deal. It will leave you full and satisfied and feeling like you’ve just had a four star sammy.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Aqua-Giving
The fish aficionados keep the terrace open through the winter beneath heated lamps so you can cozy up with an octopus salad or fresh Maine periwinkles, or truffle-crusted Chatham cod.
If you still have room after filling up on delicacies from the sea, consider Aquagrill’s house made chocolates. A box comes with eight seasonal flavors from pumpkin to pear-caramel. A box of chocolates? Forget Thanksgiving, maybe Christmas should come a little early this year.
A Few Brooklyn Stops for Turkey Day
At Caputo’s on Court Street, we sampled 25-year-old balsamic vinegar that was almost as viscous as honey and nearly as sweet, too. Imagine it glazed over the turkey for a sophisticated bird. Then came Joe’s Superette, a strange deli on Smith Street with few items on the shelves but bustling with people hungrily awaiting 50-cent proscuitto balls—one bite wonders, served hot out of the fryer. They are a breaded blend of ricotta and proscuitto. Purchase them by the dozen, fry them yourself, and serve to your guests prior to the big meal. If you want to go all out on nibbles, do not miss the sweet and the spicy sopressata at Esposito’s Pork Store just up the way from Caputo’s on Court Street. You’ll spot it by the oversized and slightly terrifying cast pig outside the store. The guys working the counter have been making sausage in their special (and very secret) way for generations—they also do a brisk business in meatball sales, so if your Thanksgiving Day spread leans towards the Italian side, consider picking up a few dozen of these treasures.
Margaret Palca Bakes on Columbia Street is the spot for buttery, flakey rugelach in traditional apricot and sumptuous chocolate. But my sweet tooth’s preference is for the classic holiday dessert of pie, pie, and more pie. To pick up a few beauties, Baked on Van Brunt Street, is your go-to. I wolfed down a Butterscotch Pudding Pie and Ed dove in for the classic apple variety. Both were favorites of the day. And we’ve heard all good things about their pumpkin pie.
Whether you are having a small get together or an extended family extravaganza, any or all of these Brooklyn secrets will please even the pickiest of eaters.
Milk & Honey Marriage
His wedding elixirs were no different. My favorite of Petraske’s offerings was the Gold Rush, a bourbon-based cocktail served in a martini glass. The mix master used Elijah Craig Kentucky bourbon and then mixed it with honey and freshly squeezed lemon juice. The result was a subtly sweet, golden thirst-quencher that went down extremely quick n’ easy.
The Elijah Craig notes of caramel and vanilla cut the acidity of the citrus and mingled well with the honey. It’s a perfect cocktail to remember as we head into the holiday party season. Make a pitcher of the stuff to serve at your bash to ensure that everyone has a jolly ol’ time.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Take Out
This time, I was riding my bicycle home from a few meetings, hungry but without time to sit down. All I wanted was Blue Ribbon Sushi. Fingers crossed, I phoned in to see if they took take-out orders; I was pleasantly surprised. In a pinch, call Sushi. My meal was ready in less than ten minutes and it is just as fresh, inventive, and satisfying curled on my couch as it is at the superb sushi bar.
Steak Sammy
I went with a new friend. We weren’t too hungry, and, in fact, only ordered food as a means of guarding the power table that we’d somehow managed to secure upon arrival. Oysters were a must, but the rest of the menu offered so many good choices that we were lost, especially not being so hungry. We knew that just one or two more items would be plenty.
When I saw the beef baguette, I instantly recalled the sensation of biting into it several months prior. I mentioned the dish, and the waitress couldn’t resist piping in that she ate it everyday for the first three months she’d worked there. We were sold and ordered one to split. The baguette comes looking rather unassuming, served with a side salad and a finger bowl of salty, crunchy hominy.
The actual sandwich stretches about eight inches across the plate but is cut in two for a more manageable pick-up. It is stuffed with braised beef, tomato jam, and a spicy, horseradish aioli. The chef adds a few salad greens to balance out the beefiness and the result is an impeccable sandwich.
We tried to be polite and talk to each other between bites, but ultimately, the sandwich demanded our full attention. Crusty baguette, house made jam and aioli, and slow cooked meat are all I need for a perfect dinner.
Smith and Mills is more than a steak sandwich though. The tiny space is rustically outfitted with old-fashioned fixtures and embellishments. The soundtrack is a stream of classic and indy rock. The lighting, service, and drinks make it a great place for a date.
After we’d finished our halves, my friend was clearly impressed with my sammy intel. “I could eat two full ones that was so great!” he exclaimed. And it was at that moment that I came clean and decided to reveal that, in fact, once I had.
Bond Street Sea Bass Skewers
However, it was when he shared his secret sea bass skewer source with me that my admiration for him truly kaboosted through the roof. I’ve always been a Tao skewer follower, having first feasted on them during a surprise 18th birthday.
The Bond Street bass comes two per order with a small dressed salad. The fish is flaky and well marinated in saikyo miso, the sweeter of the misos due to its shorter fermentation time and smaller soybean content. I liked them at Bond because they seemed somehow meatier, better marinated, and perfectly seared.
Better yet, Bond St is open until the wee hours, and the skewers are a perfect snack. Thanks Amir!
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
FuFu
Fried onions, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and savory bits of bacon are sometimes added to the base porridge, and at Rayuela, the chefs are certainly adding a delicious twist to the core concoction. The fufu adds a perfect counterpoint to spicy chorizo, sweet shrimp, and crispy chips. I’ll be making up for lost time by indulging in this dish many times over!
Takahachi Love
So, when I dined at the sushi bar at Takahachi with a veteran Takahachi diner, I was wooed by the delicious cuts of fish, the creative sushi rolls, and the incredible amount of love that the regulars receive.
My friend walked me through the menu, pointing out her favorite appetizers and maki rolls. She explained that her favorite sushi chef would make us each a small omakase platter of sushi, but that it’d be best if we supplemented with a few extra treats.
Before we had a chance to place our order though, the chef had molded a tartar of whitefish into a heart. He topped it with red tobiko and served it with little tasting spoons. He explained that this was a traditional opening salvo to a sushi dinner; of course, the heart shape with his small touch.
I liked the sound of the Hamachi Tartar, which was a blend of chopped yellowtail and sea urchin and Tabasco aioli. The dish came wrapped in a banana leaf and was served with a dollop of black caviar.
Next came our sushi platters, which were each different, based on our preferences. Because I like ikura, the Japanese salmon roe, the sushi chef presented me with a small dish of house-marinated roe over rice. He explained that the traditional way of serving it—as nigiri—would be too difficult (too big and burdensome) for me to eat so he gave it to me this way instead. It’s true! I have eaten many an ikura nigiri, and they are always much too large for me to eat in any lady-like way.
Our sushi rolls were fantastic as well. A salmon and avocado roll was chock full of ample portions of fish. The ninja was a beautiful roll of tuna, Chinese yam, burdock, and yuzu wrapped in slightly pickled nori.
Wages of fear only came with two pieces, but they were heavenly. Giant clams peaked out the top of the upright pieces and kaiware, smelt roe, and spicy sauce hid inside. The chef gave us an extra bowl of the spicy sauce because we loved it so much. I couldn’t help but wonder if he’d added love.
Cel-Ray
The celery taste comes from the addition of celery seed, not actual celery. It was perfect to cut the heaviness of the steaming plates of pastrami before us. Apparently, my brother has been ordering this drink since he was a child; however, neither my little brother nor I remembered. So much for passing down the secrets!
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Nigel Slater’s Halloweiners
In Kitchen Diaries, Slater deems October 31st a day of bangers and brownies. “Piping-hot casseroles and deep pots of beans…sausages and steaming piles of potato and…dense, chocolatey cakes” are his ideal food groups on the ghoulish day. And, after reading through his recipes, I am happy to skirt around the candy corn and Reese’s cups to get to the good stuff as well.
Slater fries up a few sausages until they are golden brown. He boils about a pound of potatoes in salty water. He drains and mashes them up, and adds parsley, butter, and salt. He then heats cream and two types of mustard together before incorporating them into the taters. I’d fry some garlic and onions alongside the sausages to add an extra zing to the mash, and also, because vampires have an aversion to garlic.
Lay a solid bed of potatoes onto two plates, pile the garlic and onions atop, and then ladle on the fried sausages. This will make for a warm and filling first course on the spooky eve. There won’t be many ghosts or goblins coming near your breath if you cleaned your plate.
Slater recommends finishing off the meal with a simple (no nuts, no flavorings) brownie. I like his preliminary idea of rich, dark fudgey chocolate, but I’d add espresso and cinnamon to my recipe and serve up the squares with steamed milk spiked with a shot of frangelico, the tasty Italian hazelnut liqueur.
Slater is right: a meal like this will leave anyone considering candy-craving kids at the door an outlandish interruption. Of course, it IS tradition; so double or triple your brownie recipe and leave a plate of them outside. Then, kick back and enjoy the feast that will have all epicureans rising from the dead to steal a bite.
Treats Truck
Candy Corn Crispies—crispy squares with candy corn and chocolate—and Sugar Cookies in the shape of Halloween cats & bats will be a few of the Treats Truck offerings tomorrow.
There’ll be no escaping the clutches of candy this Halloween so you might as well devour the best. If you’re getting a toothache from all the sugar, rest assured that 10% of Treats Truck profits go to a good cause—this month it’s Chefs For Humanity.
Sweet genius, Kim Ima will most likely be doling out treats like usual. Check the website for the truck’s exact whereabouts.
Madeleine Halloween Macarons
This month, Goupil introduces a few seasonal flavors. Celebrate Halloween with pumpkin, cranberry, and fig forms of the Parisian treat.
They’re a bit pricey at $2.50 a pop, but one—with its sugar domes encasing an ample slathering of buttercream—is rich enough that it’s all you’ll need.
If you are having a fête to honor the ghosts and goblins, picking up a few dozen macs will surely make your party a hit for the sugar-inclined set.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Kampuchea
However, a dear friend invited me along for dinner. I didn’t want to be antisocial as a result of my disapproval of the restaurant choice, so I went along, choosing to write off the place entirely before I even arrived and not worry about what would be going down my gullet. It was a Friday night towards the end of summer, just when the whether was beginning to cool off in the evenings.
When I arrived, I noticed all of Kampuchea’s windows were thrown open. I know I had said that I wouldn’t evaluate the place, but the window situation gave me some foreshadowing hope!
The menu was only hard to choose from because of the myriad of enticing choices! There were six diners, so we took the liberty to order many dishes.
What I liked most about Kampuchea’s cuisine was the unabashed usage of spice. Nearly every dish had an element of heat to it that made the dish exciting to eat. Moreover, to compliment the heat of many dishes, a bowl of delicious toasted garlicky bread arrived plate-side.
The dish that I couldn’t help but wolf down was the skirt steak sandwich. Served with toasted coriander and sambal chili paste, the tender steak came with a kick; the spices invigorated my mouth, and the bread cracked and yielded at exactly the right points. Other stand out dishes included the mussels with pancetta bits and okra with grilled shrimp, which are best eaten with your hands and with the exoskeleton. Even simple dishes like the pea salad were refreshingly vibrant. Delicacies like pea shoots and Chinese sausage are found cheap in Chinatown and re-appear on the menu.
Perhaps I should have looked beyond the hipsters and welcomed Kampuchea as a refuge in the neighborhood.
Educated Vinaigrette
The peppery taste and velvety texture make it perfect for just about anything. In the passed week, I’ve tossed a cucumber and carrot salad with it. I’ve also marinated chicken breasts with it. I used it to finish off a grilled skirt steak—making my quick version of a steak au poivre.
If I had any left, I would have made grilled vegetable sandwiches on ciabatta bread and used the dressing as a sauce.
School House Kitchen profits go to all sorts of child education and healthcare centers. In fact, the company was founded specifically for the purpose of raising money for early education!
Capogiro Gelato
The couple uses dairy from Pennsylvania farms and only fresh ingredients in each small batch that they make. They rotate the flavors extremely often. On the fateful day of my Capogiro discovery, I sampled the Rosemary Honey Goat’s Milk and was instantly hooked. The flavors are well balanced—not exceedingly powerful but more subtly all-encompassing. The consistency is exceptionally smooth and creamy without being cloyingly heavy or sweet. Truly inspiring!
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Beechwood House Barbeque
We were thrilled to get our hands on each of the flavors, and were bowled over by the results. Their “extra-hot” and “ginger-wasabi” sauces were perfect on barbequed chicken, and the “original” sauce dressed up a whole onion to make for a tasty vegetable side. Yours truly enjoyed it so much that it easily became my entrée.
Although barbeque season has passed, autumn days hearken autumn oven roasts, and Beechwood House’s sauces rise to the occasion yet again. The “ginger-wasabi” sauce goes wonderfully on a roast duck with a side of Sichuan-style vegetables and brown rice. The garlic sauce works perfectly with salmon and is wonderful served with broccoli that have been tossed in it as well.
To get that same divine summer onion that I devoured at the barbeque, glaze a whole, peeled yellow onion with the “original” sauce. Wrap it in foil, and bake in a 400-degree oven for half an hour. Serve several of the sticky sweet and sour onions for dinner to accompany roast pork (glazed with the same sauce!), baked fingerlings or squash, and cinnamon apples!
Developed from family recipes of Lynn Fabian (Founder of Beechwood), the Beechwood name comes from her family’s summer home in the Catskills, where the majority of the recipes first came into existence and were then taste-tested via many barbeques each summer.
The involvement of the second and third generations of the Beechwood legacy will surely keep these sauces circulating for seasons to come.
Indeed, the sauces’ shelf lives extend past summer and well into fall, but after just one finger-licking taste of these versatile sauces, you may discover that they’ll be long gone come winter!
Tea District
To make the earl grey infusion, I ground the tea in a coffee grinder until it was a fine powder. I then mixed it in while I was creaming the butter with the sugar in my usual recipe (if you are using a mix, add the tea powder to the dry ingredients).
The result was an extremely refined cookie that, of course, went great with a cup of tea.
If you don’t like earl grey, try doing the same process with Tea District’s Jasmine Blossom Green blend. The result will be an earthy accompaniment best dipped in or crumpled over ice cream.
Molleja n’ More in Beuños Aires
One such morsel is Molleja, the thymus gland of the bull, but when served as a dish can refer to that gland in a cow, lamb, or pig as well. In Argentina, it is typically grilled or roasted and served piping hot on a plancha.
She’s also discovered the merits and varieties of steak and dulce de leche (not together!). A tender skirt steak for dinner followed by anything covered in dulce de leche is an ideal meal. Our ravenous reporter says they put the caramel-ish spread on everything from crepes to cake rolls to alfajores—mini cookie sandwiches covered in chocolate and powdered sugar.
Our mouths at Dish headquarters are watering and we can only hope that she’ll have recipes and smuggled in treats upon her arrival!
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Taste Sicilian Favorites at Cacio e Vino
Sal stands back and lets his caponata, his baccala croquettes, and his arancina di riso speak for themselves. And that they do: in the most delicious way. His eggplant caponata couldn’t be a tastier blend of green olives, pine nuts, capers, and raisins with the featured vegetable. His salt-cured cod croquettes are fried and then crusted with sesame seeds to add a burst of texture. And his arancina, a most celebrated dish of Italy that usually consists of day-old, deep fried rice, is a gourmet rendition that consists of beef ragu and peas encased in fried rice that has been saffron-infused.
Those three dishes are reason enough to check out the cellar-esque spot in the East Village; however, no visit would be complete without sampling the pizza and the pasta. Risotto with cuttlefish ink comes a deep black and is large enough of a portion to share with a friend or as an appetizer for the table. Pizzas come in two sizes: personal (12”) and to share (16”). They are baked in a brick oven, and the pizza chef, Alessandro Ancona, knows that using cherry and oak wood is the real trick to making great pizza.
The quattro stagione pie balances savory and sweet flavors of extremely fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, marinated artichokes, salty black olives, and sweet tomato sauce. The olives and the mozzarella are particularly good. The pizzas are served bubbling hot, and patrons can watch and hope that theirs is the pie being pulled from the oven in the rear of the restaurant.
What could make this food so tasty? Besides importing the Italian chefs, Cacio e Vino also uses many f.o.b ingredients like sea salt hailing from Tranpani, capers from Salina, and Noto almonds. Though this East Village outpost is one of the few places to sit down to Sicilian food, it’s really all that you need. In the words of chef Salvatore, “there is another really great place to get Sicilian food: in Sicily!”
Truffle Honey
The Borough Market of London is a souped-up Greenmarket, full of epicurean delights. Though much of the fodder is fresh, there are a few booths that carry non-perishable items.
One such booth carries truffle honey. That’s right, suspended shavings of black truffles float in a jar of delicious British honey. The intense earthiness add the honey a vibrant savory note to the sweet.
Eaten on toast or drizzled over cheese, it will make a snack fit for any prince or princess. As a glaze on chicken, pork loin, or ribs, the truffle honey is a sure thing to make any dish a dinnertime delight.
Kyotofu Hones in on Calpico
We are practically registered groupies of the black sesame sweet tofu and couldn’t imagine having a new favorite at the smartly designed Hell’s Kitchen haunt; however, Calpico Soy Ice Cream is certainly a rising star. Calpico is a Japanese drink that does the unthinkable job of marrying milk and acidity in a delicious way. The drink is quite nostalgic, and to rework the flavor into frozen form has Japanese and Americans alike in a flurry of excitement.
Kyotofu is sometimes a hard sell of a dining spot—located in a fringe ‘hood and serving up highly specialized cuisine. It’s easy to think that this is spot only to be ‘checked-off-the-list.’ However, the spot has done an excellent job of snagging repeat customers to carry the tofu bastion beyond the buzz.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Bierkraft: No. 1 Stop for Oktober
Such elixirs are arranged geographically and include an assortment of Indian Pale Ales like Dogfish Head 60 minute, 90 minute, and 120 minute IPAs and Smuttynose IPA. There is also the Dish-tested Allagash Tripel Reserve White Ale, which a Culinista once used in a delicious summertime tart. Notes of honey and pineapple pilot this golden beer to a top ranking on Dish charts.
Meatier beers are also numerous. Keegan Ale Mother’s Milk is a tasty, weightier brew. Dish gals tasted hints of dark chocolate and coffee. You can find Ringwood Brewery’s award winning Old Thumper, which they bill as “extra special ale,” because it is the brewery’s strongest. A pepper-and-apples, autumnal vibe in both the taste and weight of the beer make it a perfect Oktoberfest accompaniment to any sausages or kraut you may come across.
The Ommegang Brewery, featured in the above article, makes a quality Belgium-style selection of beers. After a trip to Bierkraft, the Dish enjoyed the Ommeggedon, an 8% ale with strong shots of citrus. The beer, which comes in a 750mL bottle, was delicious with Cuban-spiced shrimp and a hearts of palm salad.
The shop also always has several beers on tap available for purchase in reusable growlers. Six Point Sweet Action and Diesel were available during the Dish visit.
Bierkraft’s selection doesn’t stop at beverages, however. The specialty shop also provides ideal accompaniments to the top-notch bottles. Keen’s Cheddar, Cypress Grove Midnight Moon, and Cashel Blue might all make great nibblers depending on your beer of choice. A charcuterie counter offers up superbly made, manly sandwiches to absorb the booze. A serious selection of chocolate is available for something to finish up with.
Beer Soaked Mussels
Serve with the steaming liquid and toasted baguette.
The ratio is about 1.5-2 lbs of mussels to one bottle of beer. Add a clove of garlic, a knob of butter, a branch of thyme, a branch of rosemary, and cracked pepper, and make the beer a German hefeweizen to doll up the dish. Garnish with some freshly chopped parsley for a vibrant finish.
No salt is necessary in this one, since the mussels release their liquor, which is plenty salty.
The Dish’s Favorite Beer
My most recent discovery, and the one I’ve been proclaiming my favorite for a few months now, is the Rare Vos from Ommegang Brewery in Cooperstown, NY.
I had it on draught at Harefield Road in the summertime, and was pleasantly surprised by the citrusy orange grove undertones in the bittersweet elixir. The amber ale has notes of caramel-ness and hops plus a little funkiness in the finish. I also picked up some fig, apple, and cinnamon vibes that’ll get you groovin’ into fall.
Try Rare Vos with sun dried tomato pasta, fried oysters, moulês frites, crêole seasoned chicken and pork, Jamaican jerk chicken, paellas, chorizos and merguez, and tapas.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Breakfast Finds at Blue Apron
Ines Rosales Sweet Olive Oil Tortas are a perfect accompaniment to coffee in the morning. Hand-pressed and made with extra virgin olive oil, the crispy, thin flatbreads are made in Seville using an original 1910 recipe. Señoras are trained for three months prior to being inducted into the dough-kneading production line. They are taught how to properly flatten and give sugar baths to the small doses of flatbreads they prepare. The breads crisp up in the oven and are doused with sugar crystals; the result is a sophisticated sweetness that cuts the acidity of a cup a’ joe.
If coffee and flatbread isn’t enough for your morning break-fast, pick up some Bay’s Original English Muffins. The muffins origin lies in Chicago with a man named George Bay, who founded a bakery that sold his muffins with orange marmalade in 1933. The muffins sold fast and soon Bay was distributing to restaurants and hotels. Five years in, he incorporated and began distributing nation-wide. His muffins were so popular that they were used in the original (and probably much tastier) McDonald’s Egg McMuffin in the 1970s. Bay’s claims that using Hawaiian cane sugar, Minnesota spring wheat and whole milk, Wisconsin AA butter, and potato flour are cornerstones for perfect English muffins. The top grade ingredients plus the fact that all muffins are distributed within 24 hours of their baking—whether to a grocery or a restaurant—in refrigerated trucks makes Bay’s a delight to any breakfast.
Muffins and flatbreads aren’t for everyone though; and if you’re more of a sweets person in the morning, pick up a packet of Baked Vanilla Marshmallows. Six fluffy, homemade marshmallows come per pack from the Red Hook bakery Baked. The bakery claims to be neither pretentious nor cautious, which clearly comes through in their goodies. Who else would dare make something as humble as a marshmallow? Baked does it to perfection: add one or two of these pillowy, fresh squares to your hot chocolate, and you’ll be floating on a sugar high all day.
Capon
Capons are cooked the same way that one would cook a conventional chicken. However, this über-breed will feed many more people.
Larousse Gastronomique suggests steaming capon breasts in banana leaves or poaching and roasting a whole capon and serving it with pumpkin gratin—sounds like someone’s vying for a spot at Thanksgiving!
Coffee Cup of Excellence
Last year, a Brazilian cup called fazenda cafundo took its place at the top of the ranks. And after sipping through, I can see why. The beans, sifted, dried, and prepared by Coffee Masters come from the Santa Mesquita family farm. Once turned into liquid form, they have a long, rich quality. My morning coffee wasn’t bitter or acidic. Instead, the Brazilian beans were sweet and chocolate-y. The taste stayed with me without drying out my mouth or turning acrid.
The coffee comes from Coffee Masters Private Reserve collection and can be purchased from The Café Connection for $15.95 for 3/4 of a pound.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Insomnia Cookie to the Rescue
Seth and his company have now translated this late-night collegiate craving into franchises on twelve college campuses around the country. Even though the original Insomnia crew now has to hire outside student managers and bakers to run their franchises, the dough is shipped wherever it is needed, including all the way down to Tulane in New Orleans, where they are about to launch their newest station. Balancing the intimate vibe of the company at its beginning with its new corporate direction is what makes Insomnia a unique hybrid of student entrepreneurial ingenuity and Big Business prowess and maturity. This free delivery service runs 7 days a week from 8pm until 2:30am, with its New York delivery range extending beyond the original NYU zone, its only New York baking site, to the surrounding area spanning Houston to 19th street, and crossing from Avenue C to the West Side Highway.
Two of Insomnia’s most popular treats, the white chocolate macadamia cookie and their signature brownie with a cookie dough topping, were both customer suggestions that remain in high demand. Other cookies include double chocolate chunk (a favorite), oatmeal raisin, chocolate chunk, M&M, sugar, and peanut butter. The company’s classic taste originated with Seth’s grandmother’s recipe, with which he tinkered to achieve the satisfyingly gooey but sturdy Insomnia Cookie.
The Insomnia team has branched out into corporate catering and gifting, now serving law and PR firms as well as faithful hungry college students and downtown locals. Since each batch is baked to order, don’t forget to give them 45 minutes delivery time.
Choco-Mame
Set them out at your next get together as a classy way to start the evening. The bite sized treats get everyone’s attention and even the most willful skeptics love them.
Next up, we are waiting for them to appear as bar snacks. And then you’ll always know where to find us!
Wine Cellar Sorbet
The Dish gals got the scoop—quite a few actually—on the duos flavors; our favorites were Riesling, which was so smooth that we swore it was gelato, Champagne, which was not cloyingly sweet and instead possessed a sophisticated dryness, and a secret new flavor being kept under wraps until it is perfected. We took a vow in frozen sweets to keep our mouths shut (save gobbling copious amounts of sorbet), but Wine Cellar Sorbet is certainly a company to watch!
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Blaue Gans
When his Lower East Side spot, THOR, opened up with The Hotel on Rivington, I went within the first week. However, I’ve always forgotten to stop in at Blaue Gans, his airy Tribeca rendition.
When I finally went several weeks ago, I was reminded of Gutenbrenner’s expert skills with savory sausage and fresh fish. I sat at the bar with my copy editor and took in the atmosphere, which Gutenbrenner left intact from the location’s previous permutation, Le Zinc.
Blaue Gans has an exceptional wine list, featuring—of course—wines from Eastern Europe. When I last dined, I drank an outstanding Anton Bauer Berg Vineyard 2006 Riesling.
As far as food is concerned, don’t miss whichever seafood carpaccio appetizer he is featuring at the time. Also, be sure to try at least one of the featured house made sausages. The pork and veal sausage that comes with a pretzel and sweet mustard is outstanding.
Order at least one dish that comes with spaetzle—Gutenbrenner has the knobs of pasta down to a science. And of course, a meal is not complete without a dessert or four.
The salzburger nockerl is a meringue-like, airy puff of cream and eggs. It blankets a spread of fresh berries beneath that serve as an ethereal end to any meal. The one-bite chocolate lollipops (that come with a vanilla milkshake) are another no-fail finale. The mini vanilla milkshake is the perfect accompaniment to four miniature chocolate covered sponge cake-like biscuits.
Though I've yet to go to Austria, Gutenbrenner has certainly brought the rich and authentic cuisine back to me here in Manhattan!
Fennel Gratin
8 fennel bulbs
4 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano- Reggiano
fresh thyme
salt & pepper
1. Preheat oven to 350˚.
2. Thinly slice all fennel.
3. Parboil the fennel in salted water for about ten minutes, until soft. Drain.
4. Toss with salt and pepper, olive oil, and half of the cheese.
5. Arrange on a baking sheet and flatten with a spatula. Top with cheese.
6. Bake for 20 minutes or until the top has browned and bubbled.
Serves 4.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
Turks & Frogs
It was only a few weeks ago that I got around to checking it out with a dear friend of mine leaving for San Francisco the following week.
We sat at the bar and the waiter brought us a massive tray of cold appetizers—grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, black currants, smoked eggplant, tarama salatasi, and creamy hummus to name a few. All the choices looked delicious, but we chose the imam bayildi, a baby eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, garlic, pine nuts, and onions. Between that, the bread, and delicious olive oil that we’d been poured we nearly had a meal! The eggplant was tender and easily spread; the stuffing irresistible.
I’d ordered a glass of effervescent Riesling, which seemed to be the ideal accompaniment to the creamy eggplant.
To lighten things up a bit, we ordered the cucumber salad, which came packed with chopped tomatoes, doused in a light vinaigrette, and speckled with parsley and red onion.
For the main course, the swordfish skewers beckoned to us. One long rod, loaded with chunks of white meat, charred with onions, and green and red peppers, arrived on a bed of arugula. The dish was both filling and substantial, but it didn’t weigh us down.
Nothing on the menu is too expensive. Entrees range from only $16 to $23. Even still, it would be easy to make a meal solely out of the cold appetizers.
We weren’t rushed to leave the bar after we’d finished our meal so we stayed for another glass of wine. The atmosphere was calm despite the full tables surrounding us.
After our meal, we were both sad that we’d waited so long to try out the place; now that I like it so much I don’t know if I’ll be able to wait for her first Manhattan visit to return.
Lara Bars
The Dish team was a huge fan of the cinnamon roll, which contains only dates, walnuts, almonds, raisins, cashews, and plenty of cinnamon. We also adored the lemon bar, made with tangy concentrated lemon juice.
The bars are ideal if you are eating on the go or simply trying to cut back your sugar intake. The dates—a staple ingredient in all the bars—are naturally sweet enough; you’ll surely have your fix.
And, if you need more of a pick-me-up than just dried fruit, grab the chocolate mole bar, which, in addition to dates, contains cocoa powder and spicy chilies for a kick!
Himalayan Rock Salt
Rock salt is said to restore energy health, and chemical balance to the body; I was certainly energized when I saw the mass of pink.
Besides the exciting presentation, the block was useful, too. I rubbed the tuna into the salt block before each bite and the result was incredible. Apparently, Burke has purchased a large amount of Himalayan rock salt to have at his disposal.
After seeing it utilized so well with the sashimi, I look forward to seeing how else he will incorporate such a unique garnish!
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Lemonades
Lemonade should no longer be just Minute Maid. The Dish experienced some incredible ginger lemonade at Mojo Coffee and at Taim that has her making daily rounds for her fix.
Of course, ginger lemonade can be made at home. Make a lemonade base by squeezing lemons and adding simple syrup (water boiled with sugar) to taste. Next add ginger syrup, found at any grocery store.
The possibilities are endless for creative lemonade. Add grated cucumber for cucumber lemonade. It will go wonderfully with a cold chicken salad with cilantro and sesame dressing.
Boil stalks of lavender into your simple syrup concoction for lavender lemonade. Imagine how delicious the drink will be while sipping it on the porch, nibbling on scones and strawberries!
Mix equal parts cranberry juice and lemonade for a tart refresher that will compliment any summer pork dish, or perhaps simple Cuban sandwiches.
Le Pain Quotidien has mint lemonade that I crave when I wake up late at night and the air conditioner isn’t on. This one’s easy to make: simply mash some mint and sugar into the bottom of your glass before you pour in your lemonade!
Thai basil is another herbal addition that will enhance and elevate your lemons to stylish, dinner party status.
For flowery lemonade, brew a strong hibiscus tea. Once it’s cooled, add it to the ’ade. It’ll be a hit with duck salad or confit.
You can achieve slightly richer lemonade by adding a splash of cream like they do at Birdbath. Called “Farmers lemonade,” the cream cuts the bite of the lemons and makes for a more sophisticated summer drink.
Anyway you squeeze it; lemonade is surely the drink of the summer.
Zabaglione
It’s simple to make as well. First, place 3 egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and 3 tablespoons of Marsala in a large pot. Beat the ingredients until they are frothy. Place the pot over medium heat and keep beating the mixture. Once the zabaglione is warm, remove it, but keep beating. When it’s cooled off slightly, return it to the flame and beat it until its warm again. You may do this a few times. It’s not hard, just a little tedious. You’ll know you are finished when the mixture is fluffy and thick.
Divide it amongst your guests and top it with berries of all sorts. Citrus-y lemonades or a gingery rum drink are both ideal compliments!
Dark and Stormy
A national drink of the always-hot Bermuda, a Dark and Stormy is the perfect summertime beverage. It consists of a shot or two of dark rum and a healthy pour of ginger beer. Finished with a twist of lime for a little zing, it’s ideal for a day by the pool or the beach.
Bermuda rum company Gosling’s Brothers Ltd has the trademark on Dark ‘n’ Stormy, but with little or no access to the special rum outside of the island, the thirst-quencher can surely be made with Bacardi, Mount Gay, or Captain Morgan’s for delicious results. For a true treat, add a little piece of candied ginger and sugar to the rim of your glass before serving.
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
No Flame Preparations
Cured salmon is always a popular addition to brunch, and you can impress your friends and family by doing it yourself! There are several methods of curing, but the more apartment-friendly one involves creating a cure--often a mixture of salt, sugar, dill, some citrus, and vodka. After rubbing your fish filet with the cure, wrap it in plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator with a weight on top of it. The amount of time until the fish is fully cooked varies, but it should normally take one to two days. Remove it from the plastic wrap thereafter, wipe away the excess cure mixture and slice. After you are done, impress your friends further with any number of dishes from finger foods to frittata!
If a cure isn’t your style, rustling up a ceviche is always a festive way to entertain in the summertime. A ceviche uses the acid in citrus juices and zests to cook the fish. Often found in Latin American cuisine, ceviche normally “cooks” pompano, snapper, or sole. However, you can also make a ceviche of salmon, tuna, or scallops. Chop your fish into small chunks. Marinate the chosen fish for about 20 minutes in a combination of citrus, and, most frequently, lime, salt, garlic, and chilies. When finished, we suggest creating a fish salad with mixed herbs such as cilantro, mint, onions and red bell pepper. Enjoy!
Our last cool-off summertime suggestion is carpaccio: a method of serving, thin slices of raw meat and fish. Normally a starter, it is served with an aioli sauce and a variety of accompaniments including mixed greens and other fresh vegetables. Stray away from tradition by preparing a carpaccio of other foods such as shrimp, octopus, venison, and elk. Or convert this starter into a dessert with fruit carpaccio!
Whichever method you choose, you’ll be out of the kitchen and enjoying the party in no time. And best of all, you won’t have a stove to clean or an oven to let cool.
Scallion Sauce
Sushi Seki, a longtime favorite of sushi connoisseurs, is a modest space on the Upper East Side that cranks out reliably topnotch creative and traditional sushi, and is home to the scallion sauce.
Served as a thin line of vibrant green sauce marked atop delicious salmon sushi, and served with a dime-size piece of fried kelp, I could eat this dish forever!
If you can’t eat salmon forever like me, get the omakase, which is laden with simple cuts of fish that wow patrons by their unadorned flavor as well as signature artistic pieces like the crunchy eel on a sliver of avocado.
Bon Chon Chicken
Served in a smaller size (more comparable to American wings), this chicken had a thin, super-crispy crust and was seasoned with a zesty, soy garlic glaze. The chicken at Bon Chon is cooked to order, so it always comes out fresh.
The two-step frying technique is different than American fried chicken, and is what makes the chicken’s skin so thin and crisp. After the fry, the unseasoned chicken is lightly seasoned with a mixture of Asian spices. Since it is made fresh, be prepared to wait, but we can tell you you’ll be waiting for one tasty bird!
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
A Club Sandwich Survey
Luckily, the city is full of delicious clubhouse (or simply club) sandwiches. The Dish team took a week to dive into the most decadent double deckers around town.
To clarify, a proper club should have three slices of bread and be cut into four triangles. Held together by toothpicks, the bread should be toasted to help the loaded sandwich maintain composition. The traditional sammy is packed with bacon, turkey, lettuce, and tomato. However, the substitution of chicken or roast beef for the turkey is common, and cheese and mayo are frequent additions.
In typical Manhattan fashion, restaurateurs have thrown the club requirements out the window and incorporated ingredients like duck and lobster. And that’s not such a bad thing.
At the Bar @ Etats-Unis, there’s a lobster club served on white bread and tooth-picked. Rosa Mexicano makes a pressed Mexican club with ham, grilled chicken, bacon, avocado and Chihuahua cheese with black bean-chipotle spread. ‘SNice revamped the dish to accommodate vegetarians. It’s made up of tofu, fakin’ bacon, and whole wheat bread. Blue Ribbon Bakery—as if I haven’t plugged them enough—has an irresistible duck club!
For more classic (but all cheese-inclusive) versions, Jerry’s club comes with ham, turkey, bacon, cheddar and swiss on sourdough. However, with no toothpick to hold the thing together, eating the hulky sandwich was nearly impossible. Florent has a more manageable, tooth-picked and quartered classic, composed of smoked turkey, black forest ham, bacon, and swiss. JG Melon, though famous for their burger, also has a stellar turkey club. Lastly, the club at Grey Dog’s Coffee offered the most choice of meat and bread selections, though there were only two slices. Perhaps the tradition is lost in our city, but the clubs—if we can call them that—are still delicious.
T Salon
Novalle prides herself on her selection of teas and elixirs. On any given day she’ll have more than a dozen from which to choose. Dish favorites include lemon earl grey and papaya.
If you’re in the mood for more than just a satisfying beverage, Novalle also has a variety of raw cuisine to accompany her teas.
Oshinko
My favorite was the pickled Chinese cabbage, which was bright pink. Crunchy and bursting with flavor, the taste was such that it was a perfect accompaniment to a little sake.
Much to my delight, I discovered the store-bought version of oshinko at Sunrise Mart on Broome Street. It comes in an 8oz packet that can serve about six. I plan on serving them as hors d’oevres at my next dinner party. Supplementing with some cucumbers and salmon roe, the meal will surely be a hit!
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Heartschallenger
The set hails from L.A. where they’ve been ice cream trucking for almost two years. Their premise is simple: clients book the truck at events such as celeb parties, raves, kids birthdays, magazine openings, or bar mitzvahs, and Layla and Ben give out free, tasty ice cream.
The duo now has four trucks doling out the summertime favorite and plan to take a couple of them to London and Japan shortly. They stock their trucks—formerly mail trucks—with specialty ice creams from around the globe. Their most popular treats are non-dairy pops like Rice Dream and Tofutti’s. Mochi (the Japanese ice cream orbs) is also another favorite.
Layla and Ben decided to come to New York after their success in L.A. in an attempt to “test their market” before they franchise the biz. Thus far, New York has “embraced them more than L.A.,” and Layla has been impressed with how kind and welcoming everyone in the big city has been. Indeed, as the Dish girls cruised up to the truck on our bikes, there was was Richie Rich—famed club kid extraordinaire—smiling and chatting up the ‘scream team.
But how could any ice cream loving New Yorker not adore them? Layla wears the cutest pink outfits—all glitter and sparkles—and Ben hangs back to watch his pretty princess in action. They are bold when they need to be: once even convincing police officers to let them spread their frozen love without a proper permit. But mostly, they are all sweet and cream.
The name, Heartschallenger, came to Layla in a dream, which turned out to be quite the lucrative premonition. The rate for the truck varies depending on the event, but the two seem to have a fairly negotiable, I-scream-you-scream attitude.
Visit their website to hear the music of their band, Heartsrevolution, and to read all about how the two fell in love, and ultimately decided to spread love through ice cream and house beats.
Fruit Floes
They are refreshingly natural, with no preservatives or artificial colors. Strawberry even has chunks of the real stuff throughout the pop. Lime is tart and tangy with a mod green countenance.
Mix them in the blender with a little alcohol for daiquiris or margaritas. Or, use them as a base for fruit smoothies by adding yogurt, banana, and blueberries for a little antioxidant boost.
With $5 per pack (there’s six in a pack), the pops—in every form—are certainly a must-lick for any hot summer day.
Oko is Oh-So-Good!
The Öko difference is that everything—from spoon to wall to counter—is green, as in environmentally friendly. The walls are compressed sunflower seeds; the spoons are potato starch; and the plates are composed of processed corn. The other difference is that this fro-yo is made from Greek yogurt, which makes it low in fat and high in flavor.
We mixed the original flavor and the wildberry, and topped the blend with kiwi, mango, and blueberry. Other toppers included dried cranberries, coconut, and almonds. The yogurt is superb; it has a tangy, rich taste that lingers even after you’ve finished your bowl. It’s a little less damage to your wallet than Pinkberry, but don’t forget to take into account the $4 metro trip.
Tuesday, July 24, 2007
Soto
There was a torrential rainstorm on the night that my party dined. Coming to Soto was a serene escape with its sleek, vibrant design and calming atmosphere. The food was much like the atmosphere: simultaneously invigorating and soothing.
The live lobster that wowed me was marinated in ginger and soy, and topped with yuzu kimizu–a citrus-y Japanese hollandaise—and osetra caviar. The texture of the fish was refreshing, and the caviar luxurious. The ikura (just a simple piece of sushi) was the sweetest I’ve had. In addition, the briny, metallic taste so often detected in salmon roe was absent.
However, those weren’t the only standouts on the menu for me. The special sushi roll of the day (the tuna tartare roll) packed with chopped tuna, avocado, burdock, shiso, and spicy sauce was wrapped in white seaweed and delicious. The shima aji carpaccio, twelve thin slices of tuna, was drizzled with ginger-truffle soy sauce for a delicate delight. Both the salmon citrus and the Scottish salmon dishes were spectacular, and very different. The citrus version, with scallion, cilantro, and sudachi jus was the enlivening dish, while the Scottish counterpart had a gentle, comforting taste. Langoustine and cooked lobster made memorable appearances on the menu (and on our plates) as well, combining sweet and savory flavors like shiitake and mango.
Hailing from Atlanta, Sotohiro Kosugi seems to have brought his fan-base with him. Devoted followers are crowding the sushi bar for the flawless slivers of impeccable fish.
Located on a busy, messy strip of Sixth Avenue, the site of this new sushi destination is Soto’s only misstep. Nonetheless, you won’t regret walking in through the windy wooden and rock entrance where you’ll be transported into Sotohiro’s immaculate, crustaceous world.
Tra-La-La-ing
Ann Saxelby Cheesemongers pioneered the move into the market in 2005, and now people like Kenny Shopsin are following.
Our favorite recent arrival is Tra La La, a juice bar and muffin stand. The Blue Monkey is by far the best blueberry-banana muffin the Dish team has tasted. Arrive at almost anytime to find the muffin makers pulling a fresh batch out of the oven.
Wash it down with any of the fresh-juiced fruit and vegetable combos for the freshest start in the neighborhood.
Forbidden Rice
The Dish favorite was the Chinese black rice, called Forbidden Rice. Its nutty taste, purple-black coloring, and soft texture make it the perfect rice for both hot and cold dishes. Mix it with toasted almonds, dried cranberries, and flat-leaf parsley for a spectacular cold salad. If it’s hot rice you want, toss the black grains with shredded duck, sesame seeds, and sesame-oil-sautéed carrots.
The Forbidden Rice is also perfectly tasty the next day (and the next day!). Simply add a little water before you reheat it if you want it hot. Or mix your extra rice with eggs, roll into balls, coat with breadcrumbs or panko, and fry in oil until they are crispy on the outside. Serve piping hot with soy or ponzu sauce for dipping.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
First Food Regret
I try everything. I’m not even the least bit picky. Of course I have many preferences, but there’s not too much that I flat out will not eat. I relish enjoying the weird stuff, and I aspire to like it. At my summer camp where many of the counselors were Australians, I bragged about my adoration for the salty, smelly Vegemite and Marmite that they’d bring to the breakfast table each morning.
Later in life, when I started eating sushi, I was always testing the limits with octopus and eel and sea urchin. All of those strange new textures seemed—and still are—so much fun.
So when I was in Vietnam last year, silkworm larvae didn’t seem like such a bad idea considering my penchant for freaky foods. Little did I know that after masticating the mushy pod of grey gunk, I’d made the first food mistake of my life. I tried something so grotesque that I was almost physically ill at the mere mention of it for days following the taste test.
The situation started as many of my culinary adventures start: at a local Saigon restaurant, I instructed my Vietnamese friend to order whatever he liked. I promised him that nothing would be too much for me and that I truly enjoyed trying anything new. He was excited for the prospects and soon plates on fascinating dishes were appearing in front of us. A bowl of grayish-brown oval pods arrived in front of me. Wow! I thought. I’d never seen anything like them! I looked around the restaurant and everyone was popping them in their mouths like popcorn.
I followed the protocol and did the same. First, the outer shell—a soft exoskeleton tasting case—burst on first bite; then, a soggy interior starting to spread through my mouth. It tasted like mildew and lint and the inside of a vacuum cleaner. This strange bland taste of horribleness took over; I could barely swallow but managed to do it in minimal bites after I realized what was happening as I chewed.
As if the actual act of eating this thing wasn’t enough, when I’d finished and washed it down with loads or rice and frantic (but polite) gulps of water, just thinking about any nanosecond of the occurrence was enough to induce a gag reflex.
That was a bad experience. They are gross! Then again, it’s just my opinion, and you never know: if you tried them, maybe you’d be popping them like popcorn, too!